eyeliner on a cat

eyeliner on a cat
beauty, scent & style scrutinized for pleasure

Saturday, March 12, 2011

Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau

I have been anxiously awaiting my sample of Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau (which translates to Skin Games), and it finally arrived the other day. Created by Christopher Sheldrake, I must admit that my expectations were high; mostly because I love so many Lutens fragrances already.


Notes according to Luckyscent:
Bread note, spices, licorice, apricot, immortelle, sandalwood, woody notes, amber

On opening, I get a distinct rush of verdant forest mingled with a bright candied fruit note, which is absolutely stunning... for a moment. Then, the overwhelming sugary maple syrup effect of the Immortelle eats all in its path. At first, it is a pleasant sweetness, but quickly, I am longing for the note to be removed so that some of the others may come out to play. Here is where the scent stays on me for about twenty minutes.

As the dry down progresses, a sensual skin-musk is being born from the treacly wreckage, and it starts to take on another personality. The longer it sits on my skin, the more pleasant it becomes, and several hours later, I can tease out the woods and amber just a  bit.

In the end, Jeux de Peau is a fragrance I would not buy; it is simply not for me. Something about my body chemistry and the way I interpret fragrance does not agree with wearing maple syrup. I do however, very much enjoy eating it.


Jeux de Peau is available at Luckyscent.com among other places, for $120 for a 50ml bottle. 

16 comments:

  1. My own impressions of Jeux de Pau were slightly different - as you know!, but as another Lutensoholic, the anticipation nearly killed me, too! I wasn't disappointed and didn't get the same overpowering immortelle that you did. I liked the osmanthus, and loved the drydown, but just like you, it wasn't entirely...me. What I liked best of all is the way Serge Lutens can build anticipation - and then pull the rug of those expectations right out from under us!

    Maple syrup would be a quite a bit cheaper, if stickier to wear! ;)

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  2. Hmm... another less-than-impressed blogger. Perhaps JdP will turn out to be Lutens' Angel...

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  3. On me Jeux de Peau wears differently, it might well be on its way to become my favorite Lutens. But what I love most about it, is the incredible complexity of this perfume that leaves nobody cold, even those who end up not liking it. :)

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  4. I enjoyed your review! I love the name "Jeux de Peau".

    I won't be sampling this...you know how I feel about maple syrup. I wonder if Victoria will be brave enough to try it? (she hates maple too)

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  5. Tarleisio: I love how wildly different many Lutens perfumes can smell on different people, and how the interpretations of thtese scents can vary so widely as well.

    Persolaise: I did give it several good tries before I made my final judgement. It does make me a bit sad that it wasn't meant to be.

    Joanne: I don't think Victoria will be able to resist at least sniffing it, but I will be gobsmacked if she likes it.

    Wow, Birgit, your favorite SL? That is saying a lot. My first SL bottle was Feminite du Bois about 15 years ago, so I had been treated to the original formulation. Not sure anything can top that for me, but several other scents are nipping at its heels.

    The name Skin Games makes me think of that song "Head Games", by Foreigner, I think it was. I know that's terrible. The name is really very cool.

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  6. I've never been a big gourmand fan, but I still want to try this. I don't really mind maple. We'll see how sweet it is on me. Did you like Like This?

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  7. Like This was another one I was very excited for (before I knew that it was hard for me to wear maqple), and it just didn't work out. Sad, because I'd never wanted to wear a celebrity's perfume until Tilda (just 'cause it's Tilda and I *heart* her).

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  8. Haha, I haven't tried this one yet! And frankly, I'm scared. I know that immortelle is going to scream "maple syrup" on me; it always does. I hate the smell of maple syrup! But, I know in the end, I'm going to try it. Like it, hmmm....we'll see.
    I thought I was the only person in the world that disliked Like This. That one really works my nerves and the maple is too much for me. And like you, I was upset because I love Tilda. I felt like I was letting her down :(

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  9. Ah...one who didn't like it that much. Immortelle is a polarising note and I guess it does come up in this one. But it's characteristically Lutensian (a good thing in my books) and I found that the woodiness underneath that gives that "toasty" impression is quite well played: not too burnt, not too sweet. A perfect medium. Don't know if I would wear a whole bottle, but a bid decant...oh yeah.

    I think that Persolaise is on to something with his comparison to Angel's appeal/repulsion. Well, maybe not that strong.

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  10. Maybe it's Serge concsiously trying to do an Angel??

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  11. If Serge is trying to create an Angel, I suppose he might just have done it. There seem to be a lot of folks who enjoy JdP, but it's hard for me to imagine just walking down the street and smelling the wafting of the scent as the fashionable walk by. They are usually wearing Feminite du Bois.

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  12. It is probably my least favorite SL fragrance. I think this time he was a bit too descriptive, too literal in his description of a situation (breakfast). All his scents are extremely evocative but they leave larger margins to interpret them. Even the much hated "Bas de Soie" is more intriguing in the way it lets your mind drift trying to explain where all the imagery comes from.

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  13. Bas De Soie is much hated? Really?? But it's so warm and sensual.

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  14. No maple syrup on my skin--- I get thick, creamy, warm and melting butter over nutty toast. It's been shortlisted for a full-bottle at my house!

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  15. @ Persolaise

    I don't hate it but most SL fans have been criticizing this for falling in the "new" trend of the house together with L' Eau. I love, I think it is veru evocative but I wouldn't go as far as calling it "warm". Obviously Serge wants his iris detached, a la Iris Silver Mist, and this is more than fine with me.

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