eyeliner on a cat

eyeliner on a cat
beauty, scent & style scrutinized for pleasure

Saturday, May 7, 2011

Maison Martin Margiela Untitled: perfume without teeth

Last year, Maison Martin Margiela released Untitled, created by Daniela Andrier. I have heard so much talk about Untitled being the go-to scent for Spring (loved by mainstream fashion and beauty magazines and perfume aficionados alike), and remembered that I was given a sample by the adorable voyagetocythera, Tommy Pickles. It was months ago when his parcel arrived, but I'm only now getting around to trying Untitled again after being initially underwhelmed by it. I always like to give things a second chance, it's only fair, after all.

The opening is promising. The varied green notes give a strong impression of vetiver root (but I don't see vetiver in the notes list), watery, verdant, salty, completely gender-free. So far, so good. In the blink of an eye, the dry-down appears, and I'm left wondering where the heart is (I hear that it's "home", though). I really wish the scent were more tenacious, because I think it has potential, but ultimately it fades too quickly. A very pleasant galbanum note is soon buried in a strange sweetness, like sugar cane dipped in pine resin.

Notes listed:
galbanum, boxwood, mastic, incense, bitter orange, jasmine, cedar, musk

Now that you know that the longevity is practically nil for me, you should also know that the sillage is somewhat of a ghostly, apologetic puff. Untitled exists in a space between where the baby teeth fall out and the adult teeth grow in-- it is a gummer. Pity, because it really is pretty. I will stick with vintage Balmain Vent Vert when I need a good hit of green.

Maison Martin Margiela Untitled is available at Saks Fifth Avenue among other retailers, a 1.7 oz bottle is $100.


  1. What a coincidence: I smelled it today for the first time at Saks, liked it (on paper), didn't want to spare any skin real estate (it was in the middle of the sniffing event, I had big plans :)) tried to ask for a sample and didn't get one (I can almost never get a sample from Saks - even when I buy something!). After reading your review I started wondering if it's worth buying a sample.

  2. First they didn't bother with naming it, now I hear they didn't bother with much of a perfume either...I guess there is no need to venture out for a sample, I'll stay home, the heart is there too after all. :) Very well written review, I enjoyed reading it, thank you!

  3. "It is a gummer" - Darlink, you are so funny!

    Oddly, this smelled like rancid peanut oil on me. I'm glad you got some enjoyment from it!

  4. ...and the interest in this perfume continues to drop off as more reports come in! Not surprising. That is why everyone should be suspicious of hype.

    Joanne- rancid peanut oil? Oh, you poor dear. I only had a few minutes (literally) with which to enjoy Untitled before it twisted itself into something weird and then disappeared. These things are best left to the nightmare monsters in our closets or under the bed.

  5. I tried it at Saks as well.Nothing much to speak of ,to me. The whole concept really does not appeal to me, I guess as well as the jus is a bit forgettable.
    Glad I am not alone here !

  6. Haha, a gummer.

    I haven't tried this one and I'm not rushing to try it either.

  7. Vintage Vent Vert is a hard act to follow, Carrie! Especially for a perfume described as "a gummer." (Hilarious and disturbing!) I do like its mysterious name (a smart way to connect itself to art) and its absinthe-colored juice. Too bad it fizzles...(comment written and deliverd FROM A PLANE! DA PLANE DA PLANE!)