There is a certain opulence and charm with a thread of danger running through each of Kedra's perfumes, and there is something wildly unique about each one. When I sat down to test the batch of samples I was sent, there were several that had me swooning immediately, others took time for me to understand, and still others that resisted my beckoning to them. At the end, I had a big handful of vials that I knew I had to write about, so I'm going to be reviewing them all in stages. This edition will cover as-yet-unreleased scents from the upcoming Les Bohemes collection, meant to evoke the 1920s. I hope for everyone's sake that these are released soon. You can, however, pick up a sample pack- there are 10 vials in all for just $20. A steal.
First up is Dapper. Notes include: violet absolute, orris root, blond tobacco, sandalwood, aged dark patchouli. This is a thoroughly gender-neutral perfume, sweetly purple and velvety with a slightly verdant top- it reminds me of how I'd like a beet to taste when I'm looking at it. There is a tartness to the blend not really explained in the notes list, but I sense it as a dark berry of some sort, perhaps blackberry. The earthiness of the patchouli and orris root anchor the scent to the skin, and only after about 20 minutes or so can I really start to smell the sandalwood. I would personally sell my soul for some good sandalwood, but luckily I don't have to, because that which is contained in Dapper is so delicious and so smooth as it plays off of the candied violet, that I think I'll go ahead and keep my soul and just buy a bottle of Dapper instead. As the drydown emerges, a silky, suede-like musk steps forward, an animalic embrace that stays with you for hours. This perfume is a no-brainer for every season, men or women-- it is a true delight.
Next up is Heavy Sugar, an amber Oriental. I cannot resist Orientals, even in sweltering heat, so I was happy to have a new one to try. Notes on Heavy Sugar include: dark amber, aged labdanum, fossilized amber, vintage patchouli, sandalwood, beach-found ambergris. Right away, this has a very classic feel to it. It's rich, sweet (but not too much), it has a really lovely hint of black tea and maybe even jasmine, but if you're looking for a progression in stages of wear where distinct top, heart and base notes exist, look elsewhere. Heavy Sugar is linear, full of syrupy, powdered kisses, and will leave a scent trail behind you that will make people weak in the knees. Yes, even in the heat. In fact, I tend to feel that rich amber Orientals really bloom on my skin in the summer; the scent particles boiling up and doing a frenzied, fiery flesh dance. Heavy Sugar is memorable for its straightforwardness, its very vintage feel and its cozy, sensual nature. As you might expect, the longevity is excellent. This is a must-have for me as well.
The next review I do for Opus Oils, I will tackle a couple of my favorites from the 100% natural Fetish Collection.
[Samples were provided by the perfumer for review. My opinions are solely my own, and I was not compensated for my review]