eyeliner on a cat

Packing for the World's Lamest Vacation

2012-03-08T17:13:00.000-06:00

Tomorrow morning, I'll be heading to the hospital for a routine surgical procedure-- I'm having my gallbladder removed. It's given me so much trouble recently and made me so sick, that I'll be relieved to get it out of me. My surgeon and surgical team are super cool, I like the hospital where I'll be, and I have full confidence in the staff. But I'm still nervous. All I can think about is what perfume and skin care products I'm going to bring with me. Distracting myself with such thoughts is certainly my self-preservation kicking in.

Just hold still... this won't hurt a bit

Since I can't bring my cat Troutie (the perfect creature comfort creature), I'm going to bring a small variety of perfumes most of which are made by hand, by people I care about and who care about me. It's all about good vibes-- bottled.
Here's the short list:

Aroma M Geisha Amber Rouge: it's in a roll-on bottle so travels well, has maximum impact with minimal sillage, and it acts as a cashmere blanket for my soul. Prediction: When the nurses get close enough to me, they will want to know what I'm wearing and where they can buy it.

Aftelier Oud Luban: It's in solid form, another great traveller. It's warm and cozy but also edgy and smoky. It reminds me of the best parts of myself, and it feels like an extension of Mandy. It's the best of both worlds. Prediction: My husband will comment on how amazing it smells. He always does, and it's gratifying when he notices and comments on whatever scent I'm wearing.

Opus Oils Giggle Water: Another roll-on bottle, this time filled with a cheerful orange blossom scent spiked with Kedra Hart's signature. a long-lingering soft musk. It makes me feel like the sun is out and I'm being warmed by its rays. A perfect reflection of Kedra's personality-- playful and engaging with a bit of the animal thrown in for good measure. Prediction: Men comment on this one. If I were single, I think I could feasibly get myself a surgeon or anesthesiologist boyfriend.

Now, on to the skin care oils or balms. I said I'd bring two- one for face, one for body, but I don't think I can stick to two. Here are my must-haves:

Decleor Angelique Night Balm: I use it over retinol cream every night, and when I wake up in the morning and look in the mirror, I am very, very happy with what I see. Hydrates and protects to the max. Superb!

Aftelier Wild Orange Face Elixir: A perfect light to medium weight oil that my skin adores, and the fragrance makes me swoon. Patchouli and Cedarwood join the Wild Orange to facilitate the ideal indulgent skin care ritual. I use what's leftover on my hands to massage into my cuticles. It works even better than my expensive Decleor cuticle oil.

Red Flower Essential Omega Fresh Berry Oil: I can use this to soothe irritations and moisturize my face and body. I love the scent, which smells like pulverized berry seeds, a tiny bit of mint and a little bit of brightness from bergamot. It's a truly elegant multi-use oil that I've come to rely heavily on.

Ole Henriksen Lavender Body Oil: Since my pal Nav was so nice to send me a giant vat of this gorgeous stuff, I'm partying like it's 1999. I can only imagine the dry air in the hospital, and what sort of odors it will carry, and lavender is the perfect bodily spell to cast in order to protect my poor nose from any unwanted odors. Lavender: it's not just for dinner anymore.

I'm skipping the retinol, so that leaves room for one more thing... more perfume!

Amouage Library Collection Opus VI has been gobbling up all my stress and anxiety lately. I can't believe I'm saying this, but I might love it more than Opus V. Did you hear that, Mr. Chong? It's big, it's magnificent and it has unexpected facets that keep me interested. Full review to come soon. Prediction: If I'm feeling well enough, I will wear this, and others may be lucky enough to smell it because it does have some throw.

Bringing all these scented treasures with me is my way of protecting my state of mind in an unpredictable environment. They are my instruments to create balance and harmony-- it's the only healthy way to self-medicate that I know of, what about you?

Happy Birthday, Mandy Aftel!

2012-03-02T09:00:00.002-06:00

Today is the birthday of talented perfumer, author and teacher Mandy Aftel, so please join me in wishing her a happy one!

I couldn't have dreamed up a more thoughtful, genuine friend. Mandy comes from a place of giving and generosity, and that shows in just about everything she does. So on her special day, I'd like to extend special gratitude to her for always understanding, never letting me down and being adept at making me laugh, especially during darker days.

Mandy: may you always have jasmine wishes, and ambergris dreams!

Current Obsessions: end of February

2012-02-29T15:51:00.001-06:00

Once in awhile, I like to dish on what I'm currently obsessing over, and many of my fellow bloggers mercifully do the same thing. I love to know what everyone can't possibly live without. This is often how I find out about small brands and obscure products or fragrances. I am a cheerful voyeur, but instead of peeping you getting out of the shower, I'm looking to see what products you've got in there. I also want to ogle your cats.

H.P. Lovecraft with his kitty

Zoe Organics Love My Body Oil 2.5 oz, $20
This small but mighty outfit focuses on pregnancy and baby natural and organic skin care products, but don't let that fact lead you astray. This body oil can and should be used by everyone. It contains many good-for-skin ingredients and goes on satiny smooth. The recipe has very recently been tweaked for the better to include such things as vanilla plantifolia, pumpkin seed oil and tamanu oil. The fragrance is soft and lingering, enticingly natural, relaxing and puts me in a great mood every time I use it. It makes quick work of little dry patches on my arms, softens the dense scar tissue from my tattoos and soothes my post-shave legs. I've nudged Zoe Organics' owner Heather Hamilton to see if there's a larger size of this gorgeous oil on the horizon, and she's assured me there is. Heather, if you're reading this, I'll take a 64 oz Big Gulp size, please.

Red Flower NYC Ocean Cleansing Hair Wash & Softening Conditioner 8 oz, $28/$32
I did not realize how dull and flat my hair has been acting until I used this amazing clarifying duo. The scent is refreshing, and the products are loaded with natural ingredients to soothe the scalp and perfectly cleanse and condition hair. A dash of vinegar in the Hair Wash delivers incredible shine, and the Softening Conditioner is aptly named, perhaps even modestly so. This duo puts my hair and scalp in such a state of perfect balance that I don't need to wash my hair as often as I used to. I've got my eye on French Lavender or Italian Blood Orange for next time. I'm smitten with everything Red Flower right now-- there are so many happiness-generating products, and so little time.

Zoya Feel Collection- Winter 2011 Six bottles in the set, $48
Oh, lord. I couldn't even begin to choose one or two shades from this collection, I had to have them all. Each pastel creme color can work as a neutral and are all terribly chic and eye-catching. This is a sophisticated option for gals with cool or neutral skin tones who look at a line-up of such nail polish bottles and think, "Ooh, candy!".

NEST Fragrances Sir Elton John's Woodside Garden 8.1 oz (60 hrs burn time) $38
Ah, Spring. This has been an incredibly mild Winter, and today it's in the 50s and it almost feels like Winter never happened. Woodside Garden is the perfect Spring floral scent to inspire such delusions. It has notes of hyacinth, freesia, rose and jasmine and is meant to mimic the flora that Elton loves best in his garden in Old Windsor. As per usual for NEST, the glass vessel is outrageously pleasing to the eye.

Aftelier Wild Orange Face Elixir with Cedarwood & Patchouli 7ml, $40

This beautifully lightweight and deliciously fragranced facial oil goes with me everywhere. Oils have all but replaced creams for face and body in my daily regimen, and this is a very special one. The scent is simple, yet bizarrely effective at calming me down (and I've had a lot of chances to put it to use lately). The wild orange and patchouli are dominant, with the cedarwood lending that little touch of sharpness the blend needs to attain balance. The fragrance lasts for a few hours on my skin, and nobody can smell it but me. It's my secret rescue remedy with lots of impressive skin care benefits. And look at that bottle for a moment. It's precious.

Okay, folks, so now that I've spilled my obsessions, how about sharing some of yours? Inquiring minds have no shame and yes, we want to know.

[all products were purchased by me for my personal collection except for the NEST candle, which was sent to me by the company for my consideration]

Animal Magic: By Kilian Amber Oud

2012-02-23T23:36:00.002-06:00

Ah, Kilian Hennessy. His fragrances range from good to great, but in general, I consider them to be a bit too pricey for what they are (which is the only reason I haven't purchased a full bottle as of yet). The newest launch, Amber Oud, may be the one to inspire me to take the plunge.

Calice Becker created Amber Oud, and it's the second fragrance as of late to boast an overdose of benzoin and vanilla. Compared to last year's Prada Candy (created by Daniela Andrier), Amber Oud has a distinct heft and it smells very expensive. It's not nearly as sweet as Candy, yet still possesses the addictive warmth of it. Amber Oud is thoroughly genderless, and has a powerful but quiet animalic presence. It reminds me of a panther in relaxation mode.

I CAN HAZ A OUD??

Notes: amber, oud, bay leaf, cedarwood, vanilla. Sillage: average. Longevity: excellent

Amber Oud starts out with a sexy bang. Right away I am reminded of Mona di Orio Oud Intense, but the spiciness of Oud Intense is replaced by Amber Oud's impossibly rich, incense-laden woodiness. After a few minutes, the intensity of the benzoin and vanilla really grows roots in the composition. It's here that the fragrance's potential to broadcast a message from the skin is at its highest. In my case, that message is: "I eat your favorite bands for breakfast".

As it wears on, the benzoin and amber slow dance to The Sundays' version of "Wild Horses". The powdery nature of several of the notes and the delicate but multi-layered underpinnings of oud make this the perfect perfume to wear when smoking *whatever* out of a hookah in Morocco. Barring that, it's got to be one of the best statement fragrances for evening I've come across in eons. It would work with a black leather jacket and pastel cashmere sweater, or head-to-toe Haider Ackermann in shiny teals and greens, or a Ralph Lauren tuxedo suit with no camisole beneath the jacket. I can also imagine Amber Oud wafting towards me from a confident man with all his ducks in a row (actually, they'd be peacocks, not ducks). Amber Oud is personal, and it feels very new and very old all at once.

[photo: amberworkshop.com]

The oud component of the fragrance has that slight sourness that I really love in oud compositions. The drydown brings with it an enhanced dry, woody aspect with cedar staking its claim in a very late stage, and here it stays for hours. It's an extremely well-balanced composition and invokes that favorite query of mine; "How'd she do that?". Amber Oud is a sophisticated and heartbreakingly beautiful incense perfume best worn by those with natural magnetism. As long as you don't mind the extra attention you'll garner, this is your fragrance. Trust me.

[Available at Luckyscent.com among others, 50ml for $395. Luckyscent is now taking preorders, and it's expected to ship on March 1st]

[sample sent to me by the company for signing up for it on By Kilian's Facebook page]

The Mystery of The Miniature Green Flask (or, how I got my groove back)

2012-02-14T18:18:00.002-06:00

I recently made a nice little vintage haul from an Etsy seller (robinsvintage) thanks to a heads-up from my lovely friend Joanne of Redolent of Spices. Everything was between $3-$5, so I felt liberated to take a few risks. One of the things I took a chance on was this vintage green glass flask, pictured above. The listing said "manufacturer unknown", but that it was full of, well, something. Well, color me intrigued. Even if I hated what was inside, I love the little flask. Nothing, and I mean nothing could have prepared me for what I discovered when I unscrewed the cap:

(imagine the following being read by the one guy whose voice is always on movie preview commercials)

Sandalwood oil.

It's Mysore, the real stuff. It's at least 20 years old, probably closer to 30, maybe more. And if I use it judiciously, it's potentially enough to last me for the rest of my life (approx. 5-7.5 ml). It cost me $3.

Yes, what the flask contains is the one thing that I dared not dream it could be, something that is exceedingly rare and very expensive these days due to over-harvesting, the very thing I pine for every day (no exaggeration). It's potent and the longevity is startlingly good. Smelling it on my skin brings back so many good feelings while bypassing specific memories-- it's just a big happy, creamy blur, nuanced with spices particular to certain woods and resins. Many moons ago, straight-up headshop, good quality sandalwood was my signature scent, until the quality started to wane as substitutions were inevitably made.

Yesterday I made it out of the hospital a few gall stones lighter; today I awoke to this little Valentine's Day miracle. I received one of the greatest gifts possible, born purely out of chance. I'm playing tin-can telephone with the divine here, people. I can spin tales of passion involving complex and masterful blending and my love of "more is more" perfumery, but what really caused a spontaneous fit of ecstasy was this mystery miniature green flask, filled with positive energy, comfort, encouragement and child-like wonder. My sandalwood.

[I'm not surprised that this beautiful bounty landed in my waiting hands in large part because of Joanne, as the best things seem to happen when she's around]

A Perfect Day with Red Flower

2012-02-10T05:54:00.001-06:00

Lately, my distinguished and well-loved fellow blogger Nav of Beauty Huile has stoked an intense and inextinguishable passion inside me for oils. I'm discovering how useful and pleasurable a wardrobe of oils for the face, body and hair can be, and how fragrance ties very neatly into it as well. I never thought I'd say this, but creams sort of bore me now.

One of my most recent discoveries via Nav is Red Flower Essential Omega Fresh Berry-Oil Serum. It contains oils of the seeds of lingonberry, cranberry, raspberry and strawberry, along with lots of other goodies that have anti-aging and hydrating properties. *For the absolute best in-depth and poetic review of this product's benefits, I highly suggest heading over to Beauty Huile.* Since I'm a relatively new huilophile, I am mostly interested in sharing my sensory perceptions of this product. Then, I will wax poetic (pun fully intended) about a new addition to my family of luxury candles.

A few of the (very soft and light) scent elements of the Essential Omega Fresh Berry-Oil Serum are: copaiba balsam, fir, juniper berry, garden mint, guaiac wood, lavender and rosemary. Add to this the faint tartness of berry seed extracts, a fleeting sense of the ocean's mutable presence along with the rich ripeness of the forest floor, and you are well on your way to forming the olfactory picture I have in my mind. The fragrance gives me the same strange but thrilling feeling I get when I sniff Aftelier Shiso, in that it's somewhat familiar, but in many ways, not of this earth. I thought about it some more, and realized that both scents contain mint. Is it mint that is so bewitching to my senses that it practically scrambles my brains with pleasure? Maybe so. Without regard to the solution of the riddle, I plunge ahead, because all of the fun is in the shadowy journey. The beauty truly lies in its many natural subtleties and slight variations, and I wonder if I'd have missed them if I were the Carrie of 5 or 10 years ago, before my obsession with perfume really took root.

It's difficult for me to describe the fragrance without connecting it to the act of using the oil-serum on my skin- the sensory experiences are inextricably linked. This is how I began to understand what Red Flower is all about. It's not just a bottle of oil, it's a verdant and charmingly overgrown pathway to self-love. You get to smell this unique scent only when you massage the elegant mossy green tinted oil into your skin (face and/or body). When you use it on your skin, you are protecting, hydrating and beautifying yourself; healing past damage, catering to the senses in the present, and protecting your skin for the future. I don't profess to know much about the company's spiritual ethos (but they do have one, or several), but I am really enjoying drawing my own conclusions experientially.

This is my first foray into trying Red Flower products, but the overwhelming message I'm getting from the smattering of things I've tried so far is "love yourself first, then broadcast that love to those around you who need it". If that sounds too granola for you, then you should know that I'm actually that kind of person deep down. I'm not closed off to hidden messages or subliminal tidings of good will. I know positive energy when I slather it all over myself or smell it in the air. That brings me to my next delightful ambient find: Red Flower's French Lavender Petal-Topped Candle.

It comes with the top filled with dried lavender, which is so potent and lovely, I immediately transferred it to a mason jar like I do all my other plant and floral treasures (they do tell you to remove the dried flowers before burning the candle). It's a beautiful touch that makes any of the Red Flower candles a stunning gift for any occasion, but especially Valentine's Day or anniversaries. The wax is very soft and highly fragrant. The candle burns evenly and the color is a delicious deep, inky violet that looks particularly fetching when pooled into liquid. It reminds me of the perfect nail polish color that I don't have yet (but if Jessica/LipstickRose from Now Smell This gets enough votes, her violet-centric mood board may dictate a suitably stylish palette of Zoya Nail Polish shades... vote HERE!) This candle looks sexy, it smells transcendentally beautiful, and earns extra points for presentation-- when you give this to someone as a gift, you're telling them that you're like a Transformer. There's more than meets the eye.

The fragrance is a true French Lavender which proves its natural potency with a slightly metallic twinge in the overall impression. The scent fills a room (or an entire moderately sized apartment) quickly and continues to throw long after it's been extinguished. When I compare this Red Flower candle to other luxury candles I love dearly, it ranks very highly. In fact, I'm already plotting to obtain the Italian Blood Orange, Indian Jasmine and Icelandic Moonflower candles next. True confession time: I've no idea what a moonflower smells like, do you? I hope to find out soon. One day I would love to lose myself in Red Flower's NYC urban oasis for a couple of hours. It's now become a mandatory stop on my next trip up there.

[Red Flower Essential Omega Fresh Berry Oil-Serum available from redflower.com and barneys.com among other places: 2.5 oz for $48. It's a large bottle, so this is what I'd consider a great value for a really fabulous product. The Lavender Petal-Topped Candle is available for $34 at Candles Off Main (my very favorite candle shop) as well as redflower.com, beauty.com and others.]

[products were purchased by me for my own use]

Perfumer Interview Series: Liz Zorn

2012-02-04T21:42:00.003-06:00

Liz Zorn of Soivohle Perfumes is one of a kind. She's someone who is not afraid to speak her mind, regardless of the consequences. It's one of the things I really like about her; you never have to wonder where you stand. She's faithful to her vision, her art and her amazing (and adorable) cat Beanie, and her talent is boundless. In short, she's a very interesting person. Read on to find out why.

CM: When I first started seriously collecting and studying perfume, I had ordered some samples from you and realized that I had never before experienced anything similar to what you do. So, in my personal perfume story, you represent a major marker along the journey. Can you describe your aesthetic and creative goals for those who may not be familiar with your work?

LZ: Like most artists I live in my head, so that is where the work begins. It has always been that way for me and this is how I have been telling my story for as long as I can remember. I do not usually set goals, but desires. I desire things to be a particular way so I will work it out in my head until I feel that it is worthy of repeating on paper or in the lab. Like a new song that gets played over and over in my head until I can't stand it. At that point I must decide to either take the next step and finish it, make it tangible, or let it go. I do this with scent. I either get to a place where I finish it, or just let it go.

CM: I’ve always considered your style of perfumery to be “rustic luxe”, and I think the consumer’s appetite for this kind of thing is on an uptick. Do you agree, or would you characterize your work differently?

LZ: Rustic is not a word I would use to describe my work as it implies unrefined, lacking sophistication, backwards etc. When I think of rustic I am reminded of my childhood and our horrendous family camping trips. You would be hard pressed to get me out in the woods in a tent today. I love the outdoors but pooping in the woods is not my idea of luxury. I try not to put labels on the work because it boxes me in. I will say that the overwhelming feedback from collectors, is more in line with allegory and sensory connections. Less about perfume speak and more about the artistry of the work and how that fits the personal paradigm of the individual.

CM: I know that you’re a musician and have been for some time. Does music have any influence on how you create fragrances?

LZ: Of course there are similarities in structure. The spark of creation, the mulling it over, the tangible work. I do not compartmentalize my creativity. Music here, painting there, perfume etc. It all comes from the same place. An inner drive to create, regardless of the medium.

CM: Can you give hints about any new scents you may be working on at the moment?

LZ: At the moment I am working on new things in the Soivohle eau de toilettes collection. This collection is set to be expanded to include an oil perfume and perhaps a lotion for each scent in the collection. It (the collection) will first be paired down to the scents that can transition to an oil, and then new scents are scheduled to be added this year. First up are Wild Ginger Chai and Rosa Sur Rose. I am also working on new natural perfumes that will be in the Signature Collection Absolutes. These are inspired by Egyptian Mythology, the first one will be called Tears of Ra, a honey scent, based on the story of the same name.

CM: What is the most gratifying part for you about being an independent perfumer?

LZ: Being the boss of course. Setting my own pace. It is a luxury of sorts to be able to make a living doing what one loves in life. I also feel a deep sense of gratitude to be able to do what I want. I do not take it lightly.

CM: And what is the most difficult part?

LZ: Paperwork. But perhaps it is more dislike than difficult. I do it, but I do not like it. Also setting time boundaries. If I had no other responsibilities I could easily ignore all else in my life. This sometimes gets me in trouble because there are only so many hours in a day. I rush around trying to fit it all in. I am not always successful.

CM: You regularly take some of your perfumes off of the menu, but will often times bring them back in the future—sometimes with slight changes. What is your motivation for this?

LZ: If you are looking just on our website this will be the case. Nothing is really gone, it is just out of the current rotation. Most things can be purchased by request or in my studio where I keep a larger variety of perfumes. As to the changes, I rarely if ever change formulas. I do however upgrade or change out materials. For example the Vetiver for Blood Orange and Vetiver was changed because the original was no longer available. I have made changes to the new Solstice by using a different Oud and Frankincense, but the formula has not really changed. I try to keep things as close to the original as possible, but with natural materials it isn't possible to have a standardized version of every material. I also buy special limited quantities sometimes, things that cannot be replaced. I always know going in that to create a scent with this rare material means that it will not be around forever. This is how art works. It isn't always about a never ending stream of commerce, the supply and demand.

CM: I really like how you have a few different lines of fragrances within your brand because there really is something for everyone. When any one asks me for a recommendation for your scents, no matter who they are, I can easily rattle off a few that would suit them. Is it important to you to try to have options for many different people and their varying tastes?

LZ: Nope. I am very selfish in that regard, I am only interested in satisfying myself. I always set the bar very high. If that materializes into a myriad of things, it is because there are a lot of things that interest me. In reality, I am just trying to get from point A to point B. It would be too overwhelming to incorporate the desires and varying tastes of others into my equation. I would never get anything done and it would no longer be my point of view, my art.

CM: Where do you see Soivohle in 5 years?

LZ: I am a beginners mind kinda gal, so my brain is not wired for such an overwhelming long term projection. No big changes, no creative deviations. I would hope that it continues on the same path. I tend to fine tune as I go, and I always think things out before acting. I am the least spontaneous person I know. I believe that like follows like. People, like minded people do seek me out, and I am a big believer in cause and effect. With this in mind I am hopeful to stay the course and keep a positive outlook and maintain a level of integrity in my work. I think people have come to expect that from me. They expect from me what I naturally expect out of myself.

CM: There may be one or two people in Perfumeland that don’t know about your cat Beanie, but I count myself among his biggest fans. Can you give us all a brief version of the story?

LZ: Beanie (Beacon Free) is an amazing spirit. He was born with disabilities that our vet did not think he would overcome. Now he is 3 1/2 years old. He needs daily care to survive, and I am his only caregiver. I do this gladly and with love and devotion. We talk about perfume, art and music, and all of these things are fine. But it is our service, our selfless giving of ourselves to others that defines who we really are.

I have had Beanie since he was a few days old. His mother was a feral pregnant female who ate from our community outdoor food bowl. She delivered and housed her babies tucked into a stack of firewood at the side of our house near the road. A very busy state highway. I knew they would not survive that road, so I decided to bring them all inside. At first I caught the mother and then got the babies. I noticed immediately that something was not right with one of the babies. His back legs were hyper extended and he had no ability to balance himself. He was smaller and the others got the lion’s share of the milk. Each day I would pull the others away so that little Beanie could get his share. In the animal kingdom the mothers will sometimes kill or leave behind the ones who are sick or lame, Beanie’s mother Peggy Sue, loved him and cared for him. I was amazed at how gently she treated him. Eventually the other kittens began to play and jump and move around in ways that Beanie could not. At night they would all gather in a box up on a shelf to sleep. In the morning I would always find Beanie sleeping alone on his blanket. They were all eating solid food by then so I started taking Beanie to bed with me at night. It took a long time to work out his diet issues and get him to a stable place where he could live a normal life. Today he is such a happy little guy. Has the biggest personality and he is so smart that it is spooky. He has the attention span to sit and watch an hour long TV show, and a vocabulary of sounds and meanings well beyond anything I have ever witnessed in a cat before. When I think about the relationship that I have with him, I feel like he is the wise omnipotent leader and I am just the awe struck student along for the ride.

Check out this video of Beanie on the move! He's amazing:

[All photographs and video property of Liz Zorn and are used with kind permission]

The Fragrance Foundation announces winner of the 2012 "Indie" FiFi Award!

2012-02-01T14:56:00.001-06:00

Congratulations to Odin NY for winning the inaugural "Indie" FiFi award! I'm a huge fan of Odin fragrances (ALL of them) and am very happy for them. After all the Elements Showcase excitement (which I'm so sad I had to miss!), we're already working to making next year's "Indie" FiFi Award process even better. With the support and guidance of my fellow committee members, I believe that the field of possibilities is wide open. Thank you to the "Indie" FiFi committee, The Fragrance Foundation, all the incredibly talented perfumers who entered and to all who have been following along with us during this process!

The Fragrance Foundation Announces

Winner of the

2012 FiFi® “Indie” Fragrance Award

New York N.Y. February 1^st. 2012. The Fragrance Foundation is very pleased to announce

06 Amanu

Odin Fragrances New York

was revealed as the winner of the 2012 FiFi® “Indie” Fragrance Award at Monday night’s award ceremony that took place for the very first time at the Elements Showcase in New York City.

The beautifully designed Elements Showcase provided a stunning venue to host the newly

configured 2012 “Indie” Fragrance Award allowing finalists to enjoy the spotlight among buyers, press, colleagues, friends and family.

The master-minds behind the showcase - Frederick Bouchardy, Ulrich Lang and Jeff Lawson - welcomed all the guests and the five finalists to the awards ceremony. Mary Ellen Lapsansky, Vice President of The Fragrance Foundation took to the stage to open the sealed envelope, safe-guarded until that very moment by the accounting firm of Sperduto, Spector and Company. She then presented 06 Amanu, Odin New York with the coveted crystal FiFi® trophy, a recognized symbol of excellence.

“We are very proud to have won the 2012 FiFi® “Indie” Fragrance Award,” said the co- creators of 06 Amanu. “It was a labor of love to create a fragrance with such a romantic and exotic heritage.” This winning scent is described as a primitive ambiance of Southern Mediterranean peaks combined with the ancient fertility of Anatolian soils which bring forth a herbaceous blend of verdant Galbanum and raw Lentisque. The cortex of Amanu revolves around the woody rusticity of Cedarleaf and the heady complexity of Jasmine Sambac. Rooting textures of Amberwood, Musk and Live Moss endow this earthy scent with a lush maturity. The top notes: Blood Orange, Green Galbanum, Lentisque. The middle notes: Aged Cedarleaf, Jasmin Sambac, Magnolia. Bottom Notes: Amberwood, Sheer Musk, Live Moss.

Cos Policastro, Executive Vice President, Fine Fragrances at Givaudan presented 06 Amanu with a congratulatory check for $10,000.00. "This is a true achievement and we wish 06 Amanu and all the "Indie" brands continued success in the future,” commented Mr. Policastro. “These independent creators play an important role in our industry by engaging the consumer with their unique stories. Givaudan is proud to sponsor this award as our company is defined by these same attributes.”

The ceremony and cocktail party was graciously sponsored by RPG’s Chief Executive Officer Bruce Teitelbaum who added his own heartfelt words of congratulations and encouragement. “RPG began in exactly the same way as these “Indie” brands so we appreciate, understand and value the creativity, hard work and passion they dedicate to their craft and wish them great success.” said Mr. Teitelbaum.

“We congratulate all the brands that submitted fragrances, we applaud the five finalists who made it through to the finals and we absolutely cheer for the 2012 FiFi® “Indie” Fragrance Award winner 06 Amanu!” said Mary Ellen Lapsansky. “In these challenging times, nothing can hold back their entrepreneurial drive and their vision is the future of the business we all love.”

As part of the ceremony, each of the top five finalists received mini FiFi® Awards in recognition of their accomplishments. The four other finalists were:

“Cuirs” Carner Barcelona

Come L’Amore, Bois 1920

La Fumée Miller Harris

Siberian Snow by D.S. & Durga

Faith Healing for the Scent-Obsessed

2012-01-25T20:31:00.001-06:00

You know this story: You're faced with a stressful situation, like waiting to see the doctor for a very intimidating health issue that could land you in the hospital, or not. All you really want is a glass of water with lemon, and a fragrance so stunning that it provides focus for your thoughts and emotions to keep you from jumping out of your skin. Something grounding that makes you feel smarter when you wear it. It should be very long-lasting, because you don't know how long you'll be at dear old Doc's. The receptionist is yakking on the phone with her boyfriend, every single person has come and gone from the waiting room except for you, and then... "Single Ladies" comes on over the intercom. The best thing to do in this situation, I have found, is to have a good book on hand (in my case, I'm following the intrepid Lisbeth Salander during her Caribbean vacation) and privately revel in a great perfume. My scent of the day was Aroma M Geisha Ambre Rouge, which sticks to me like a benevolent spirit and has huge presence and depth without being overwhelming.

Noomi Rapace as Lisbeth Salander in The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo

Some other scents I wear which I consider to be particularly fortifying are:
Aftelier Tango and Oud Luban
Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan
Opus Oils Dapper
Caron Pour Un Homme
Ormonde Jayne Woman
Guerlain Bois d'Armenie

and...

Lavender, Lavender and more Lavender. I recently ordered a bunch of products from Paso Roble, California's Central Coast Lavender (body oil, body lotion, linen and body mist, lip balm), and it has proven to be just the thing. I believe that when we have cravings for something, it's meaningful and we should somehow be able to satisfy them. Lavender has been on my mind a lot lately and I was happy to find some lovely natural products made with copious amounts of French lavender. It's such a classic aromatherapeutic scent that it's practically ubiquitous with very concept of aromatherapy. Many folks may not prefer to wear lavender in a perfume, but love it for bath, body and home-- and I would urge everyone to give Central Coast Lavender a try.

I'd love to hear from you, dear readers: what are your favorite fragrances that help to build you up from the inside out and offer comfort during trying times?

The Five Finalists for the 2012 Indie FiFi Award have been announced!

2012-01-19T16:38:00.001-06:00

Congratulations to the finalists, and every single person who entered. I'm proud to support independent and artisan perfumers here on my blog, and I really look forward to continuing that coverage in the future.

Best of luck to the finalists!

~CM

For Immediate Release

The Fragrance Foundation Announces

Top Five Finalists for the

2012 FiFi “Indie” Award

New York N.Y. January 19^th, 2012. The Fragrance Foundation is very pleased and excited to name the top five finalists who have made it through the judging for the 2012 FiFi® “Indie” Award with the winner to be revealed on January 30^th at the Elements Showcase FiFi® Award Ceremony and celebration. A distinguished panel of expert judges had the difficult task of choosing five outstanding fragrance brands based on criteria provided by the Foundation and the “Indie” Committee. The ballots were tabulated by the Foundation’s accounting firm Sperduto, Spector & Company. “We were very pleased to receive so many entries and confirm thirty six official nominees. The competition was stiff and we applaud the judges for taking on the challenge of selecting the top five,” states Mary Ellen Lapsansky, Vice President of The Fragrance Foundation. “We are excited to present these finalists with mini-FiFi® trophies and of course honor the winner with the official crystal FiFi® Award.”

The five finalists are:

Carner Barcelona “Cuirs” – Min New York

Come L’Amore, Bois 1920 – Bois 1920 (Perfume Holding Corp.)

Miller Harris La Fumée – Miller Harris

Odin New York 06 Amanu – Foundry NYC

Siberian Snow by D.S. & Durga – D.S. & Durga

"Congratulations to these five finalists who distinguished themselves from among so many worthy entries," said Cos Policastro, Executive Vice President, Fine Fragrances at Givaudan. "This is a true achievement and we wish all the "Indie" brands continued success in the future. Indie brands play an important role in our industry by engaging the consumer with their unique stories. Their creativity and innovation inspires the fragrance world and should be recognized and rewarded. Givaudan is proud to sponsor this award as our company is defined by these same attributes. We look forward to the announcement of the winner and to present them with a $10,000 check to encourage them to continue to push the boundaries of olfactive creativity. "

Frederick Bouchardy, co-founder of Elements Showcase comments “The 2012 FiFi® “Indie” Award presentation at the Elements Showcase will be a terrific moment of recognition for the “Indie” category. It’s very exciting and we salute all these independent creators.” “We are very happy to be a part of this occasion by sponsoring the FiFi® “Indie” celebration,” added Bruce Teitelbaum, Chief Executive Officer, RPG, “the “Indie” brands deserve the spotlight and The FiFi® Award is a respected symbol of excellence. Presenting the FiFi® in such a stylish, innovative venue as the Elements Showcase is just the kind of creative thinking that brings new energy to the fragrance community and new choices to the fragrance-loving consumer.”

To attend the ceremony on January 30^th, please visit

elements-showcase.com for complete event details & registration

“Indie” Committee Mission Statement:

To support the excellence, talent and artistry of ‘indie’ perfumes, celebrate their individuality and craftsmanship, give a voice to the “indie” brands, address any issues and concerns that are important to the group as a whole.

The “Indie” Committee Members:

Mandy Aftel (Aftelier Perfumes)♥Arnaud Adrian (Robertet ♥Frederick Bouchardy (Joya Studio)♥Karl Bradl (Aedes de Venustas)♥Virginia Bonofiglio (Fashion Institute of Technology♥ Denise Capozzalo (Barneys)♥Rodrigo Flores-Roux (Givaudan Fragrances Corp.)♥Victoria Frolova (Bois de Jasmin)♥Mary Ellen Lapsansky (The Fragrance Foundation)♥ Carrie Meredith (Eyeliner on a Cat)♥Ralf Schwieger (Mane)

And now, back to our regularly scheduled blogging

2012-01-15T22:12:00.000-06:00

This blog has been on a little vacation as of late, but I'm looking forward to resuming regular posting this coming week. Thank you for your patience, and for being loyal readers!

Antique De Vilbiss dropper perfume bottle

Best Fragrances of 2011

2011-12-29T20:02:00.004-06:00

Below you'll find my 10 favorite new fragrances of 2011, in no particular order. This past year held several surprises in the fragrant universe, as well as a few personal honors for me. I was asked to join The Fragrance Foundation's Committee for Indie Fragrances, I was interviewed by Allure magazine for print and online (along with other perfume blogger pals), forged meaningful friendships with kindred spirits, and now I'm ending the year by joining a new, small collaborative blogging group consisting of myself and three other bloggers whom I hold in very high esteem (from Persolaise, Olfactoria's Travels and Fragrant Moments). We are planning on some fun group blogs for 2012, so stay tuned! Today, we are presenting our Best of 2011 lists together, and you will find links to their blogs at the bottom of this post. Year-end "best of" lists are without doubt my favorite to do, and so, without further ado, please read on to discover my creme de la creme fragrances!

Oscar de la Renta Esprit d'Oscar
notes: lemon, bergamot, citron, jasmine, orange flower, tuberose, heliotrope, vetiver, tonka bean, musk

I was enchanted with Esprit d'Oscar from the start, in a way that I never was with the original Oscar. The sparkling optimism combined with the sensuality of this flanker led me to wear it quite a bit over the past year, and I foresee my future fully stocked with it. The similarities between it and Guerlain L'Heure Bleue only urge me to love it even more.

Aftelier Oud Luban
notes: elemi, orange terpenes, blood orange, frankincense CO2, oud, opoponax, choya ral, benzoin, aged patchouli

I must admit that I had a very hard time choosing my favorite of Mandy Aftel's three new releases in 2011, because I love them all. It was Oud Luban solid perfume, however, that spoke to me in my own language. It combines two of my favorite scent elements- oud and incense, it lasts for several hours on the skin and leaves a delicious trail of smokiness everywhere you go.

Amouage Library Collection Opus V
notes: orris absolute, rum, orris concrete, rose, jasmine, agarwood, civet, dry wood accord

Opus V was somewhat of a revelation for me. Never in my life have I experienced a fragrance as overtly animalic as Opus V, and yet it retains a certain refinement at the same time. It's powerful and sexual without being the least bit vulgar. This perfume is responsible for getting me hooked on Amouage. I think the firm is thriving under the creative direction of Christopher Chong, and I look forward to future launches.

Prada Candy
notes: caramel, musks, overdose of benzoin

Prada Candy is one of the surprises of the year that I alluded to. The name and the graphics that go along with the fragrance are wildly misleading. Candy has sweetness, that much is true, but it's an extremely cozy yet streamlined scent. There is an addictive boozy effervescence about it that keeps me coming back for more.

Aroma M Geisha Amber Rouge
notes: Moroccan amber, deep wood resins, cinnamon, clove, star anise

Perfumer Maria McElroy triumphed this year with her first launch in five years, Geisha Amber Rouge. If you love honey with your amber, this intense gem of a fragrance is mandatory. The star anise keeps the blend from being too warm, and it retains an aromatic richness throughout wear, which is actually close to 24 hours. I've not been able to stop yapping about Geisha Amber Rouge since its release, and I don't see an end to that anytime soon. Sorry.

Etat Libre d'Orange Archives 69
notes: mandarin, pink pepper, pimiento leaf, orchid, prune, incense, camphor, benzoin, patchouli, musk

I love ELdO. I don't love every single one of their fragrances, but I love them as a firm, and occasionally one of their releases will knock my socks off. Archives 69 made me giggle the first time I wore it, and in subsequent wearings, the joke wore off and I was left with a very solid, imaginative blend that I wore all summer long. In a market flooded with pink pepper and patchouli, Archives 69 stands out as a display of strength for this house.

Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Vanille
notes: Brazilian orange, Indonesian clove, petitgrain, rum extract, Bourbon vetiver, ylang ylang, Indian sandalwood, gaiac wood, vanilla absolute from Madagascar, amber, tonka bean

2011 saw the life of brilliant perfumer Mona di Orio cut short, and many (including myself) would say in the absolute prime of her creativity. The introduction of Les Nombres d'Or collection indeed heralded the golden age for Mona, and the blogosphere exploded with praise for her work from all across the globe. Vanille is my favorite release from this collection, and it reminds me somewhat of Guerlain Spiriteuse Double Vanille, but more powerful, spicier and with stunning longevity. Longevity is a blessing with perfumes like Les Nombres d'Or Vanille because it's a ride that you never want to end.

Opus Oils Les Bohemes Dapper
notes: violet absolute, orris root, blond tobacco, sandalwood, aged dark patchouli

I am a notorious fangirl of select big houses like Guerlain, but in the end, it's the independent perfumers who torture me the most at year's end. As with Mandy Aftel's fragrances, I had a very hard time choosing just one of Kedra Hart's Les Bohemes perfumes as my favorite. In my heart, though, I always knew it had to be Dapper, a berry-violet and leather concoction. I've never smelled anything like it before, and its charm and uniqueness kept it in high rotation since the very first time I wore it.

Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial
notes: bergamot, orange, green notes, fruity notes, rose jasmine, iris, patchouli, vetiver, vanilla, tonka bean and white musk

As much as I love Guerlain, I've never been too much of a fan of Shalimar, but I was still looking forward to Parfum Initial. My inkling that I would love it turned out to be correct. The gourmand facets of lemon curd, vanilla and puff pastry open the fragrance in a very feminine way, but the undercurrent of patchouli and vetiver allow a masculine edge to emerge. This irresistible allure is what makes this flanker a real success in my eyes.

Le Labo Santal 33
notes: Australian sandalwood, papyrus, cedarwood, cardamom, iris, violet, ambrox, leather accord

Santal 33 was another surprise for me this year. I was not expecting it to be so razor sharp and refreshing, but that's exactly why it's a perfect summer fragrance. Le Labo can always be counted on to alter perceptions and push boundaries, and Santal 33 has become one of my favorites of theirs for its audacity alone. Bold, camphoraceous and full of heart, it's not a fragrance you'll soon forget.

Please visit these fabulous blogs for more Best of 2011 posts:
Persolaise
Fragrant Moments
Olfactoria's Travels

I'd like to wish all of you a Happy New Year, and my hope is that 2012 will be a prosperous and love-filled year for all!

I'm interviewed by Arielle of Scents of Self!

2011-12-28T13:46:00.000-06:00

The frightfully adorable Arielle Weinberg of the blog Scents of Self has graciously included me in her perfume blogger interview series.

Click HERE to go to the interview!

Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkah!

2011-12-25T00:52:00.001-06:00

I'd like to wish everyone a warm, safe and happy holiday season! And when your relatives or friends demand to know what perfume you're wearing because you smell so good, just tell them it's Calvin Klein Obsession, because that's all they'll remember.

The Retail Me Not Insider: Best Perfumes of 2011, with Trae Bodge, Victoria Jent, and me!

2011-12-23T14:10:00.000-06:00

Part 2 of my participation in Trae Bodge's Retailmenot.com Insider was posted today, and I'm very pleased to share the spotlight once again with my homie-4-life, Victoria Jent of EauMG. We dish a little bit on a few of our favorite fragrance releases of 2011.

Click here to go to article!

Perfumer Interview Series: Maria McElroy

2011-12-22T21:41:00.000-06:00

It was a unique pleasure for me to interview Maria McElroy of Aroma M Perfumes recently, for many reasons, one of which was a spontaneous Vulcan mind-meld that occurred (read on for explanation). The trajectory of Maria's career as a perfumer is an interesting one, as are her various cultural influences. As a fragrance writer, living in a world where there are upwards of 1200 new perfume launches a year, it's refreshing to meet someone like Maria who chooses to focus on quality over quantity.

Maria in her native NYC

CM: There has been an overwhelmingly positive response to your latest fragrance launch, Geisha Amber Rouge. What was your process like when you created it?

MM: Thank you so much, it has been such a wonderful journey creating my latest fragrance. Geisha Amber Rouge was inspired by my trip to Tangier two summers ago and also the lingering memories of my travels to Istanbul. I have always felt such an affinity to that part of the world. The crimson pink light of the desert set against the azure blue sea, and the evocative scents and sounds of the ancient markets, set my imagination aflame when in creating Geisha Amber Rouge. Once I experienced the extraordinary perfume oils in Morocco, I knew then that I had my next aroma M perfume.

Geisha Amber Rouge

CM: It was surprising for me to learn that it’s been five years since the last Aroma M launch! Why did you wait that period of time to release a new fragrance?

MM: Each of my fragrances has had a different gestation period. The longest being Geisha Rouge. It took five years to finalize that scent. I do not like to create fragrance, on a schedule. Like painting a painting, there is a process that takes hold and you have to see it through. Some fragrances are easier and quicker than others. I always have a very definite idea of how my perfumes should smell, so it makes it a bit harder, as I do not rest until it is exactly as I have imagined.

Maria in Morocco

CM: Your fragrances have a well-edited aesthetic to them which is very much in line with their Japanese influence. What aspects of traditional Japanese culture do you connect with the most, and why?

MM: That is a lovely compliment, thank you. There are so many aspects of the Japanese culture that work their way into my life and therefore into my perfumes. I love the Zen purity and the “wabi sabi” concept, which finds the simplest objects interesting, fascinating and beautiful. Fading autumn leaves would be an example as well as the clouds lightly covering the moon-a natural simplicity, which is actually very difficult to achieve. This is an aesthetic seen in Japanese cuisine, traditional dance and painting as well. I hope that these values come through in my perfumes.

[unknown photographer]

CM: I recently told you that I had a dream that you released two specific new scents in your Geisha line, and you’d responded that you had indeed already thought of doing them. That was a very cool “a-ha!” moment for me. Have you had other moments of odd synchronicity like that in relation to your creative process?

MM: I have to say Carrie, that experience with you was a first! I was so astounded when I heard about your dream. Indeed, so cool! I have had though, a very wonderful creative synchronicity in collaborating with my Cherry Bomb Killer Perfume partner, Alexis Karl. It has been so fun and fascinating to share in the creative process together. Our latest collaborative perfume, Immortal Mine, which was created for the Clarimonde Perfume Project, has had an incredible response, one that neither of us could have imagined. After almost seventeen years of working on my own at aroma M I am really enjoying the collaborative process.

CM: Besides perfume, do you work with any other medium to create art?

MM: I love flower arranging and I write a bit of poetry that I only share with my husband and kitty, Tama!

[flower arrangement by Keiko Kubo]

CM: I sense many different types of feminine energy in your fragrances and find that there is a different face (or character) one can put on for every mood or whim. Is this something you went in with the intention of doing?

MM: I have always wanted to make sure that each of my perfumes was different and distinct. When my line started growing it became even more important to me. I wanted to create a perfume wardrobe so to speak, one you could wear for every mood. It is a challenge to keep each fragrance unique, as I have sixteen perfumes now. I hope that they all maintain a certain aroma M personality, which might be the feminine energy you find. By the way, I love that you sense that about my perfumes!

CM: Do the different seasons inspire your work at all, and if so, how?

MM: Yes, I think that the seasons and climate have a great effect on my perfume process. The way that Central Park smells after the first snow fall of the year, the warm night air in Tangier perfumed with Jasmine flowers, the sweet scent of orange blossoms mixed with the salty Mediterranean sea of the Greek islands, the incense- laden air hanging heavy in the ancient street of Kyoto are some of the inspirations that come to mind.

CM: Finally, as is the tradition here at eyeliner on a cat, do you have any cats, and may we ogle them?

MM: Yes most definitely!! I have had two Maine Coons; my beloved Bogey of 18 years passed away this last summer, and our new six-toed Kitty Tama! Tama has the most perfect eyeliner that any girl would love to have…we adore her!

Bogey

we must give respect to those special kitties who have passed over

Tama-chan

the new addition to the family

[I happen to have a thing for Coonies because my mother has several, and they all have way more personality than any cat should be allowed to have. I've always had mutt-kitties, but a Maine Coon cat is a beautiful thing to behold.]

O Tannenbaum! [a joint blogging project]

2011-12-21T04:27:00.001-06:00

Around Christmas time every year, I think back to my much-cherished days in 'a capella' choir in high school. Singing holiday songs in different languages was one of my favorite parts about choir, and no song was more beloved by me than "O Tannenbaum" sung in its original German, which was also my favorite language to sing in (it's so satisfying and earthy). So, when Joanne of Redolent of Spices first contacted me to see if I wanted to participate in this blogging project and told me the name and theme, my heart leapt just a little bit.

I could have chosen dozens of fragrances that I love with a woody and/or tree resin theme, but alas, we could only choose three. I decided on Aftelier Perfumes Fir solid, Odin 01 Sunda and Ormonde Jayne Man. Please do check out the following blogs who have also participated in "O Tannenbaum", we are all very excited to share the spotlight with one another:

Joanne of Redolent of Spices
Ines of All I am.. A Redhead
Mals of Muse in Wooden Shoes
Krista of Scent of the Day
Victoria of EauMG
Meg of Parfumieren
Joey of Beauty, Bacon, Bunnies
Dee of Beauty on the Outside
Suzanne of Suzanne's Perfume Journal
Birgit and Tara of Olfactoria's Travels
Julia of Undina's Looking Glass
Thomas of The Candy Perfume Boy
Nick of Fragrant Reviews
Natalie of Another Perfume Blog

Now, on to the perfumes!

Aftelier Fir Solid
Fir solid perfume has a particular bright, jammy quality that I've found in several of Mandy Aftel's perfumes. One of the golden threads running through many of them is a flair for adding fruity elements to enhance the major notes and to cast some sunshine on the entire blend. This technique is used to great effect in Fir, and it makes me think of fir trees in Mandy's native California instead of those found, say, in the Midwest this time of year. These are not snow-covered trees, these needles have been sun-warmed and are sticky with resin. It's a truly charming and sensual fragrance and a year-round favorite of mine.

Odin 01 Sunda (formerly Nomad)
Surprisingly potent for an eau de toilette, Odin 01 Sunda really delivers all the best mouthwatering bits of a woody, musky perfume. I've been consistently impressed with Odin's fragrance offerings, but so far, Sunda is my favorite and the only one I have a full bottle of. There are notes of juniper berries, cedarwood, bergamot, palmarosa, black pepper, heliotrope, tonka bean, West Indian sandalwood and grey musk. Right off the bat, you get a soft but persistent pinch in the rear from a really lovely bergamot note, followed very closely by an amalgam of juniper, cedar and sandalwood. If Sunda were a person, it would be Barry White. By that I mean that it's one smooth cat. Nothing is ever too sharp or too soft, and it melds with the skin to create a musky, sexy scent that can very easily be worn by both women and men. In fact, my husband loves to wear it too (maybe there is a god?).
P.S. Odin, if you're reading this... hey... it's me, Carrie. You should have left the name at Nomad, it's cooler.

Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Man
Okay, I need to compose myself for this one. Ormonde Man, the slightly more masculine version of my beloved Woman, is less sweet and powdery, more herbal and the grass oil has been replaced with juniper- but it's got that sigh-inducing level of Iso-E Super and natural sandalwood that still makes a massive impact on me every time. What's more, it has oudh. Oh yes, there's oudh. I personally think that Man and Woman are equally good, so if you're going to have one, you really must have both. If you've spent any amount of time at all with these two fragrances, you'll know how each one satisfies different moods and whims, and they beg to be shared with your significant other. Ormonde Man is sexy, intelligent and defies you to categorize it with anything other than its female counterpart.

Please enjoy visiting the other bloggers involved in "O Tannenbaum", and have a lovely Winter Solstice, Happy Hanukkah and Merry Christmas! Now go hug a tree and tell it that you love it.

Spotlight on 30 Indie Brands for 2012 Indie Fifi Award!

2011-12-16T14:24:00.000-06:00

I am so excited to share this press release from the Fragrance Foundation Indie Committee regarding the entrants for the FiFi Award for Best Indie Fragrance. There was a really fantastic response and a lot of buzz has been generated around the submissions. I'm delighted that so many indie perfumers stepped up to this challenge!

Press Contact: Lyn Leigh, 212 725 2755 ext. 102

Lleigh@fragrance.org

For Immediate Release

The Fragrance Foundation:

Spotlight on 30 Indie Brands

Entering

2012 “Indie” FiFi® Award

New York N.Y. December 15^th, 2012. What an amazing response! 36 “Indie” fragrance entries representing 30 brands arrived at the office of The Fragrance Foundation by UPS, FedEx, mail, messenger and even hand-delivered by the perfumers themselves. “Indie fragrance brand entrepreneurs are clearly excited and enthused to participate in the 2012 “Indie” FiFi® Award Category in partnership with Elements Showcase and have the chance to win the

FiFi® Award along with the $10,000.00 congratulatory check generously sponsored by Givaudan to provide an extra measure of encouragement and support to these talented, creative free-spirits,” comments Mary Ellen Lapsansky, Vice President of the Foundation. The award presentation will take place on January 30^th at the Elements Showcase in a fun, festive ceremony highlighting the five finalists and announcing the winner.

"Independent brands and the people behind them are driving innovation. Surely all the nominees are deserving of accolades," said Frederick Bouchardy, co-founder of Elements Showcase. "We are proud and thrilled to shine the spotlight on them next month."

In the meantime, The Fragrance Foundation and the “Indie” Committee are delighted to recognize and congratulate the Indie submissions that are now official 2012 FiFi® Indie Award nominees:

Fragrance:			Company:
A Dozen Roses Collection:			360 Degrees, Inc.
Gold Rush, Iced White, Shakespeare in Love
Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensee Cologne Absolue			Atelier Cologne
Blu Oltremare, Bois 1920			Bois 1920 (Perfume Holding Corp)
Burning Barbershop by D.S. & Durga			D.S. & Durga
Carner Barcelona "Cuirs"			Min New York
Come L'Amore, Bois 1920			Bois 1920 (Perfume Holding Corp)
Debonair: Eau Dandy			smell bent
Dimanche			Strange Invisible Perfumes
Divine Gardens
for Denver Art Museum			DSH Perfumes
Eau Pear Tingle by Opus Oils			Opus Oils
Eva Luna Eau de Parfum			Providence Perfume Co.
40notes Perfume Limited Edition Signature Perfume
Collection:			40notes Perfume
Spring Vetiver
Sampaguita Jasmine
White Winter Flower
Exotic Ylang Ylang
Cashmere Musk
Exquisite Amber
Oudwood Veil
Frapin "1697"			Min New York
Geisha Amber Rouge			Aroma M Perfumes
Hope by Tallulah Jane			Tallulah Jane
JOUANY Marrakech			World Scents
JOUANY Saint Barthelemy			World Scents
Miller Harris La Fumée			Miller Harris
Mountain High			smell bent
Nectar of Love			April Aromatics
November in the Temperate Deciduous Forest			For Strange Women
Odin New York 06 Amanu			Foundry NYC
Orcas by Ayala Moriel Parfums			Ayala Moriel Parfums
Pandora			DSH Perfumes
Painting - Picture Frame			Eclectic Collections
Perfect Coconut Milk			Sarah Horowitz Parfums
Petite Mort			Marc Atlan
Rose Bohème Eau de Parfum			Providence Perfume Co.
Royal Lotus from Anya's Garden Perfumes			Anya's Garden Perfumes
Secret Garden			Aftelier Perfumes
Siberian Snow by D.S. & Durga			D.S. & Durga
Signed, Sealed & Delivered			Eclectic Collections
SOIVOHLE Leather Krem			Liz Zorn Perfumes LLC
Sombre Negra			Yosh Olfactory Sense
"Staghorn Sumac" by D.S. & Durga with Joya			D.S. & Durga with Joya
untitled no. 9 for luckyscent			DSH Perfumes

“Indie” Committee Mission Statement:

The “Indie” Committee Members:

Mandy Aftel (Aftelier Perfumes)♥Arnaud Adrian (Robertet)♥Rochelle Bloom (The Fragrance Foundation)♥Frederick Bouchardy (Joya Studio)♥Karl Bradl (Aedes de Venustas)♥Virginia Bonofiglio (Fashion Institute of Technology♥ Denise Capozzalo (Barneys)♥Rodrigo Flores-Roux (Givaudan Fragrances Corp.)♥Victoria Frolova (Bois de Jasmin)♥Mary Ellen Lapsansky (The Fragrance Foundation)♥ Carrie Meredith (Eyeliner on a Cat)♥Ralf Schwieger (Mane)

Coming Soon: The Perfumer Interview Series continues!

2011-12-13T14:59:00.001-06:00

I'm very pleased to announce that my Perfumer Interview series I began this past summer with Mandy Aftel and Kedra Hart will continue shortly with the lovely Maria McElroy of Aroma M Perfumes, and then Liz Zorn of Soivohle. I'm really looking forward to the continuation of this series, and I hope my readers are too.

Maria McElroy [photo from AromaM.com]

L'Art of Guerlain: Tonka Imperiale

2011-12-12T22:09:00.000-06:00

Guerlain Tonka Imperiale is the kind of cozy fragrance that I immediately took a liking to. Just by reading the notes list and knowing that it's composed by Thierry Wasser, it was a no-brainer for me. It's a honeyed tobacco confection with an astringent rosemary topnote and a coumarin-rich, mellow drydown that is so fabulous that I've not been able to wear anything else since I got my bottle last week. At first, I kept thinking about Tonka Imperiale's similarity to Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille, but after having worn both fragrances many times now, I can sense the many differences between them. Tonka Imperiale has gourmand facets that are amped-up in typical Wasser style but still can easily be worn by women and men. Tobacco Vanille tends to fall on the drier side of the spectrum, a little less like baklava and more like vanilla-scented pipe tobacco straight from the shop. Both are excellent fragrances, but Tonka Imperiale was made for me. It's a scent with body and strength, but its edges are soft and yielding, very seductive. It reminds me of this photo of Greta Garbo- I think she would have worn Tonka Imperiale with great style.

notes: rosemary, almond, tobacco, honey, gingerbread, hay, tonka bean (the Guerlainade accord is definitely here)

Tonka Imperiale can be classified as an oriental gourmand with a really wonderful progression of notes: as time goes by, it only becomes more comforting and complex on my skin. The overall effect is so rich and full that its tendrils reach out to encompass and enhance every degree of heat my skin gives off, amplifying the balsamic undertones. This perfume is another success in Guerlain's Lutens-esque L'Art et la Matiere line, and I very much hope to see more fragrances as arresting as this one in the future.

[Guerlain Tonka Imperiale is available at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus (in store and online), a 75ml bottle is $235. Bottle was purchased for my own collection.]

Holiday Gift Guide 2011: The Most Covetable Fragrant Gifts

2011-12-02T09:00:00.001-06:00

All year long I've been gathering intel on what I consider to be the most tantalizing, squeal-inducing gifts, jotting down notes on everything that gives me a thrill. What follows is a list of my favorites paired with the type of person that might enjoy each gift the most.

For your favorite xenophile luxury junkie:
Amouage Jubilation 25 Candle with holder (available at Amouage.com for 165 euros, candle by itself also available for 120 euros. Available in the US at Lady Ruth Perfumes for $220)
Arguably the finest incense-y candle you will ever come across. It looks every bit as beautiful as it smells.

For the boyfriend or husband who really needs to toss that bottle of cologne you hate (or you'll toss it for him):

Soivohle Transcendental Musc Pour Homme ($135 for 35ml spray at LizZornPerfumes.com)

Welcome to the 21st century, honey! This fragrance is a modern take on musk. It's fresh, addictive and will increase snuggleability by about 1000%.

For the frustrated city-bound nature worshipper:
Juniper Ridge Steep Ravine Natural Room Spray $15, Soap $8, Yuba solid perfume $65 (at juniperridge.com)
Place these three things together in a pretty gift bag and give to the nearest wistful city slicker you can find. There's no substitute for the beauty of the Pacific Northwest, but all of Juniper Ridge's products are created from that environment. They also donate a part of their proceeds to environmental conservation for the region. It's a win-win for everyone- stunning, resinous, woody natural fragrances for you, and much needed help for the environment. Juniper Ridge is one of my best discoveries of the year.

Juniper Ridge Steep Ravine Room Spray

Juniper Ridge Steep Ravine Soap

Juniper Ridge solid perfume

For someone who works with their hands a lot (and unfortunately, it shows):
Becca & Mars 3 Piece Holiday Hand Candy set ($25, scents are: Orange Clove, Peppermint Vanilla, Winter Night)
Becca & Mars make the most amazing all-natural sugar hand scrubs, and this set of three jars will make anyone happy who needs some serious hand-smoothing action and would like to smell festive while doing it. You can also split up the set for smaller (yet still fantastic) gifts.

For the lady who was most certainly a flapper in a past life:
Opus Oils Les Bohemes deluxe coffret (10) 1 dram roll-on bottles (in oil or alcohol base, your choice. $300 available through Opus Oils Etsy site)
I thought about choosing only a few of Kedra Hart's Les Bohemes line to feature, but I am inclined to feel that would be a crime. This is a set of all ten fragrances in dram roll-on bottles, and they are designed to be layered together or worn alone. The whole line is brilliant and executed with a sense of fun that is infectious.

For the dedicated but persnickety perfume enthusiast:
Aftelier Oud Luban solid perfume ($210 for 1/4 oz at Aftelier.com)
Yes, I can name a dozen people I know who are like this, all of whom I adore (and okay, I might be one of them too). In truth, any of Aftelier's perfume solids make stunning gifts, but Oud Luban has stolen my heart. Its woody, smoky spiciness with a mouthwatering orange topnote makes it particularly wonderful for the season. A connoisseur's delight.

For family, teachers, your veterinarian, hairstylist... yes, anyone!
NEST Sir Elton John Holiday candle ($38 at CandlesOffMain.com, 8.1 oz, 50 hrs burn time)
This candle has a gorgeous balsam fir and citrus fragrance and spot-on presentation with its deep aubergine glass vessel and wax to match. This is how you get major bang for your holiday buck.

For the vintage villainess:
Ayala Moriel Bon Voyage Purse Roll-on Trio 5ml each- Sabotage, Espionage, Film Noir ($175.50 at AyalaMoriel.com).
With this trio, you can choose any of a number of different perfumes, but I love these three together. It sets the scene for a particular type of character- the 1940s Film Noir Villainess. She's got perfectly waved hair, kohl-rimmed eyes and deep red lips. She's smoking a cigarette and packing heat, and she looks damn good doing it.

For someone who wants to bone up on their perfume history:
Francois Coty: Fragrance, Power, Money ($25.55 at Amazon)
Francois Coty's life story is a fascinating one and is intertwined with the history of perfume as we know it. This book captures the good, the bad and the odoriferous.

For your friend who has a growing curiosity about perfume:
Ormonde Jayne Discovery Set, 12 x 2ml spray sample vials (44 GBP at OrmondeJayne.com)
Ormonde Jayne's entire range of scents is available in this gorgeous discovery set, and it's such a pleasure to explore. Just about everyone I know loves at least one Ormonde Jayne fragrance- there are delicate tropical florals and rich, woody chypres and everything in between. A brief word of caution: this set has been known to turn a person with a harmless affinity for perfume into a bona-fide, sample-hoarding scent-obsessive.

For a much-adored femme:
Guerlain L'Art et la Matiere Iris Ganache 75ml ($235, available at Bergdorf Goodman in store and now online)
Iris Ganache is my holy grail gourmand perfume. It has a very sexy elegance about it and the creamy sweetness bounces off of the cool iris in the most bewitching way. It comes in a lovely presentation box along with a bulb atomizer and a regular one, and the bottle itself is a feast for the eyes. Iris Ganache (or any of the L'Art et la Matiere line) would be a luxurious gift for the most cherished girly-girl in your life.

Eternal Autumn: Aftelier Oud Luban solid perfume

2011-11-30T17:49:00.001-06:00

Autumn is my favorite season, and in Chicago, it never seems to last for more than a couple of weeks before it starts to get bitterly cold. When Mandy Aftel recently launched her new Oud Luban solid perfume, I knew at first sniff that I would be able to enjoy the spoils of my favorite season anytime, anyplace. It's like a gift from Mother Earth herself.

Oud Luban puts Mandy's talent for blending on full display- there are many strong essences dancing with one another, but the whole is far greater than the sum of its parts. Besides the eight varieties of oud that are used in Oud Luban, there are also notes of elemi, orange terpenes, blood orange, frankincense CO2, opoponax, benzoin, choya ral, and aged patchouli. The overall impression is one that isn't as literal as I was expecting; instead of visualizing incense, I see a bonfire that is trailing smoke far up into the sky. Instead of simply sensing the presence of the precious Noble Rot, I am immersed in the forest itself with mushrooms growing all around. I also detect the sweetly animalic essence of beeswax, proving that life is teeming.

photo: "Tempura- Autumn" by SLnnItaly

I love that there are no heart notes in Oud Luban, it has citrus top notes that sing out clearly high up in the register, then a few of the more volatile elements of incense, and its soul rests in the rich and complex base notes. The longevity of Oud Luban on the skin is quite impressive for a solid perfume, topping off at about 5 hours. It's such an intimate and intoxicating scent that on days that I wear it, I need to keep it with me at all times for touch-ups. I just can't bear to have the magic fade out on me for a second.

I feel strongly that Oud Luban is one of Mandy Aftel's greatest triumphs, and it represents a broadening scope in her body of work. I am so excited to experience what she does next, and every other perfume after that. Her attention to every detail and insistence on the highest quality materials means that I can indulge my obsession with scent in the unique way that her fragrances allow me to. Lucky, lucky me!

Oud Luban is available at Aftelier.com for $210. It comes in a beautiful silver compact designed by Mandy and holds 1/4 oz. Samples are also available for $6.

[sample was provided by the perfumer for my consideration]

Deadline for Indie FiFi Submissions has been extended!

2011-11-30T12:27:00.000-06:00

Press Contact: Lyn Leigh, 212 725 2755 ext. 102

Lleigh@fragrance.org

For Immediate Release

The Fragrance Foundation

Announces

2012 “Indie” FiFi® Award

Submission Deadline Extension!

New York N.Y. November 30^th, 2012. “Indie” fragrance submissions are pouring into the office of The Fragrance Foundation. By UPS, by Fedex, by mail, by messenger and even hand-delivered by the perfumers themselves! Indie fragrance brands are clearly excited and enthused to participate in the very first Fragrance Foundation 2012 “Indie” FiFi® Award in partnership with Elements Showcase.

Due to the fact that Mary Ellen Lapsansky, Vice President of The Fragrance Foundation has been responding to a deluge of phone calls and emails requesting information and guidance, the decision was made to extend the submission deadline to:

Wednesday, December 7^th

“The response has been amazing,” commented Ms. Lapsansky, “so obviously these wonderful indie brands are eager to compete with each other (on the friendliest possible terms of course) for the prestige of being finalists, with the winner stepping up to accept the 2012 “Indie” FiFi® Award at the Elements Showcase award celebration on Monday, January 30th . With all the buzz generated by this FiFi® Award category as well as the $10,000.00 prize generously provided by Givaudan in support of this first-time initiative, it’s a great opportunity for indie brands to shine.

For all the submission criteria, forms etc. please go to www.fragrance.org and click on Indie Fragrance of the Year to open up the information window.

Reminder: Deadline for Indie FiFi Award submissions is this Wed, Nov. 30th!

2011-11-28T14:09:00.000-06:00

The deadline for all submissions for the 2011 Indie FiFi Award is this Wednesday, November 30th. Follow THIS LINK for entry details. Good luck to everyone!

Holiday Gift Guide 2011- The Stocking Stuffers

2011-11-25T23:48:00.003-06:00

Welcome to Part I of my 2011 Holiday Gift Guide! First I'm going to list several beautifully scented or scent-related items on the smaller side that would make amazing stocking stuffers or host/hostess gifts, with all different price points represented.

The Little Book of Perfume: the Hundred Classics, by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez- $12.24 at Amazon.com
Here is the much-anticipated follow up to Turin & Sanchez' Perfumes: The Guide. This time around, the focus is on their 100 favorite perfumes from The Guide, and some reviews even have updates. There is an excellent new short piece by Luca Turin on The Osmotheque in France along with his take on a few long-gone classics and an all-new foreword by Tania Sanchez (which in my opinion makes The Little Book worth the price of admission alone). This petite, chic volume would interest anyone who loves fragrance- from beginner to seasoned Fragonerd, and easily slips into a handbag so there's a handy reference when shopping for perfume.

Aftelier Perfumes Resurrection limited edition candle (3oz)- $50 at Aftelier.com
There are only 25 of these pure beeswax luxury candles for sale at Aftelier.com (there are other limited edition candles as well) and they will surely sell out soon, so hurry if you plan on grabbing one. Resurrection has essences of frankincense, vetiver, clary sage, geranium, bitter orange, fir needle and lime. I adore the beautiful beading on the outside of these glass votives. If there is someone on your gift list who is very stylish and perhaps a little hard to please, look no further.

Aroma M Geisha Amber Rouge roll-on perfume oil (8ml)- $55 at AromaM.com
The newly launched Geisha Amber Rouge is one of my little darlings as of late, and would make a perfect gift for the sexy siren in your life. This warm Oriental fragrance has notes of Moroccan amber, deep wood resins, cinnamon, clove and star anise.

Juniper Ridge Cedar incense- $10 for 40 sticks at JuniperRidge.com
Juniper Ridge's incense blends are perfect for those who wish they had wood-burning fireplaces but don't. Burning a stick of Cedar incense quickly fills your space with the essence of cedarwood-- an easy way to create a calm and balanced atmosphere during the hectic holiday season.

NEST Holiday boxed votive- $14 at CandlesOffMain.com
A classic. This lovely gold-toned votive in its red velvet embellished box will make every person with a heartbeat squeal with delight. Notes of mandarin orange, pine, cinnamon and eucalyptus create an instant festive mood.

L'Artisan Parfumeur Amber Ball (small)- $90 at Luckyscent.com. Medium and Large sizes also available, crystal refills are $75
L'Artisan's very sophisticated and rustic method of scenting the home comes in the form of these terracotta balls, carved and chiseled by a potter. Inside the ball are seductively scented amber crystals that release their scent slowly over time. Refills are available for purchase as well.

Opus Oils Jitterbug Perfume Parlour Absinthe Tea- $20 for a 3oz tin at OpusOils.com

Absinthe is my very favorite tea from Opus Oils' stellar lineup of loose teas. It's a black tea with notes of pear, violet, vanilla and anise. Intoxicatingly delicious and very refreshing.

Atelier Cologne Oolang Infini Petite Cologne Absolue- 30ml for $55 at AtelierCologne.com

With notes of blue tea, bergamot, smoke and leather, Oolang Infini is guaranteed to please both women and men. It's distinctive, classic and cozy.

[Holiday Gift Guide 2011 Part II still to come, so stay tuned!]

Help Bellatrix and enter to win samples from Croatian perfumers!

2011-11-25T16:27:00.001-06:00

One of my lovely readers, Ankica, creator of 100% natural Bellatrix Perfumes would like to hear your opinion about what you would like to see in natural perfumery. Click HERE to take a short survey, and be entered to win samples of fragrances from two Croatian perfumers.

I love to see independent perfumers take initiative like this to try and become more in tune with their customers and their needs, so let's all take a few minutes and show Ankica a bit of support!

beautiful Kukljica, Croatia (Ankica's hometown)

Carrie Meredith and Victoria Jent featured in The Retail Me Not Insider!

2011-11-21T15:26:00.001-06:00

Check out the current installment of The Retail Me Not Insider for a piece by the multi-talented (and gorgeous) social media and marketing maven, makeup artist and co-founder of Three Custom Color Specialists, Trae Bodge. Her article is about the best celebrity fragrances according to Trae herself, yours truly, Victoria Jent of EauMG and Kelly Kovack, the co-founder of one of my favorite brands, Odin Fragrances. I love collaborating on articles like this, it's always so much fun.

Trae Bodge

Juniper Ridge Steep Ravine and Yuba

2011-11-19T23:35:00.001-06:00

Occasionally, a small independent brand will pop into my sphere of existence from out of nowhere and quietly hand to me something that I hold in the highest esteem, and that is peace of mind. I am a worrier by nature, I fret (and I do it well), I toss and I turn, I'm often restless and anxious. Juniper Ridge, a company dedicated to wildcrafting from (and protecting) the Western Wilderness, offers peace of mind in abundance. Today, I'll be reviewing a room spray and a perfume, with more to come in the future.

Oregon Wild- photo by Justin Rohde

First up is the Steep Ravine Room Spray. Forget any notion you have of room sprays for a minute, and imagine this: an all-natural pump bottle room spray that smells exactly like the woods in winter, with a little hit of ozone appropriate for the season. A crisp accent of citrus carries with it a certain levity that pairs so well with the pine, and a touch of eucalyptus tickles the nose. In other words, heaven on earth, in the most literal sense. The scent is ideal for the home, and I think it would make a really beautiful holiday gift for absolutely anyone.

notes: bright pine, sap, dappled sunlight and warm wind blowing through the giant trees

Juniper Ridge also has solid perfume in their lineup of products, and I was sent Yuba to try. My first thought was "I love this little vintage tin!" They use repurposed (but brand new) Flood's Ointment tins from the 1930s that contain 1/2 ounce of solid perfume.

notes: cozy cedar cabin, pine sap, Sierra Granite Lake

Yuba is very sprightly and refreshing, and I'm quite impressed with how potent and long-lasting this solid is. There is also a lot of skill in the blending: the light grapefruit topnote perfectly accents the fresh cedar and pine, and this balance is maintained throughout wearing (which is about 4-6 hours). I'll be honest- natural woods and resins of high quality such as this makes my eyes roll back into my head with pleasure. There's never a time or place when a scent like this wouldn't be desirable to me. Yuba is an all-purpose mood lifter, and it works with a swiftness that only natural essences can achieve.

Juniper Ridge source their materials locally and give back to the environment that inspires them, and that's the sort of warm fuzziness that separates Juniper Ridge from many other indie businesses. They create unique products responsibly, and I promise that if you give them a try, you'll go back for more. They also carry incense, handmade soaps, essential oils, teas and sachets in addition to their amazing room sprays and solid perfumes. If you fall in love with a particular scent, you can usually purchase it in several different forms as well. I hope that one day I can make it back to the Pacific Northwest and treat myself to one of their Wildflower Tours, but in the meantime, I've got inspiration aplenty to take me to my happiest place in the forest.

Yuba 1/2 ounce solid perfume can be purchased for $65 and Steep Ravine Natural Room Spray is $15 for 2 ounces- both available at juniperridge.com.

[press samples were sent to me for my consideration]

Memory Erasers: Demeter for Sanrio and Etat Libre d'Orange

2011-11-15T23:33:00.000-06:00

I was just thinking today about one of my favorite smells from my childhood: Sanrio gummi erasers. They smell like powdery, fruity bubblegum and I always wanted to chew on them, but relegated myself to huffing them instead. When Demeter for Sanrio decided to release fragrances inspired by Hello Kitty and her friends awhile back, I was stoked. One of them, the Sanrio 50th Anniversary fragrance, was designed to smell exactly like those erasers I hoarded as a child. I had faith that Demeter could pull this off.

Unfortunately, it was a huge fail. My inner child had to have a time-out. If you're in the market for fruity plastic, this is for you. When I think about it, Etat Libre d'Orange Encens et Bubblegum is actually closer to the mark. It smells like classic Dubble Bubble Bubble Gum, with a bit of spice to it. Wearing it gave me a strange thrill, but it ultimately proved to be a stark reminder of my age. It was an ultra-short-lived fountain of youth, but at least I got to go there. It's a touch sexy in a disturbing, Lolita-ish way, but I think there are a slew of teenagers out there who would fall in love with it. I think the concept and the formulation of the fragrance is one of Etat Libre d'Orange's most interesting (and I am a fan of theirs in general, for the record). I like to recommend that people try it just to try it, but it's hard for me to conjure up the image of a real adult who might wear it.

And now I put this question to you, dear readers: Do you have a special memory of a thing or place that you wish someone would replicate into a perfume?

Aroma M Geisha Amber Rouge [a new release, a new love]

2011-11-09T13:38:00.003-06:00

Maria McElroy of Aroma M Perfumes has released her first new scent in five years, Geisha Amber Rouge. It arrives like the other Geisha perfumes, wrapped in the wildly appealing Yuzen paper from Kyoto.

[image: aromam.com]

I instinctively knew when I uncapped the bottle that I didn't need to cautiously sniff it first before applying to my skin, I just went for it. When my first response to a fragrance is my heart racing and my lips curling into a smile, I know I've hit paydirt. Geisha Amber Rouge is a new version of Maria's classic Geisha Rouge, but it's deeper, more animalic and profoundly honeyed. The spices are more intense and the amber is rich and powdery-smoky, like the finest incense you can imagine.

[image: incenseandaromatherapy.com]

From the Aroma M website: Geisha Amber Rouge gives a nod to Oriental perfumery in its use of rare vintage ingredients from the desert. Moroccan amber joins forces with deep wood resins, cinnamon, clove and hints of star anis. Characteristically spicy notes of the original Geisha Rouge blend with that of Japanese incense.

To me, Geisha Amber Rouge is the lovechild of Geisha Noire and Geisha Rouge. It's almost as if Maria went rummaging through my secret desires and crafted her new perfume out of them. Geisha Noire is my other favorite in Aroma M's line- I like to say that it out-Shalimars Shalimar (at least for my tastes). Geisha Amber Rouge is set apart by several things, but mostly by its definite tinge of rusty, iron-laced blood, and while I can't figure out exactly how it got there, I enjoy it to no end. There is a sensuality present in this perfume that is very physical, almost visceral.

Geisha Amber Rouge showed up at my doorstep at exactly the right time and has already become one of my favorite scents of the season. It has none of the cool detachment of many of the fragrances I've been frequently wearing (and no florals, either), but throws searing heat instead and is one of those rare treats that truly stokes the imagination. Amber Rouge is clearly one of the most beautifully composed Aroma M perfumes, and if you love Orientals as I do, do not hesitate to add it to your collection. Your entire being will thank you.

Aroma M Geisha Amber Rouge is available now on aromam.com, an 8ml roll-on bottle of perfume oil is $55. Samples are also available for sale.

[press sample provided by the perfumer for my consideration]

Happy Halloween from eyeliner on a cat!

2011-10-31T16:17:00.001-05:00

I'd like to wish all the wonderful readers of eyeliner on a cat a spectacular Halloween, and in the spirit of the season, I thought I'd share a few spooky photos from my past. Enjoy!

No self-respecting former goth girl doesn't have a graveyard photo shoot under her belt

Forlorn, melancholy... Edwina Allan Poe

My tattoo of Christopher Lee as Dracula

Kitty in a costume for good measure, it is Halloween after all!

What perfume will you be wearing to celebrate Halloween today? I'm heavily entranced by Mandy Aftel's latest perfume solid, Oud Luban (review coming soon).

[photo credit for cat: from the book Fashion Cats by Takako Iwasa]

My home in the forest: revisiting Ormonde Jayne Woman

2011-10-25T19:02:00.000-05:00

As I was choosing my scent of the day today, I was drawn to one of my favorites, Ormonde Woman. I wore it a lot last Winter, and I associate it with the minor thrill I get when freezing cold air first hits my skin when I go outside. Despite today being relatively warm, Woman ushered in the mood and the emotion of Winter and a slight giddiness bounced around in the pit of my stomach. This fragrance, in all its evocative glory, is a harbinger of the cold for me, and I wear it today in celebration of the beauty of this time of year- when Fall ripens into Winter and I become the best version of myself. Intentions become clearer, my mind moves along at a pleasing clip and ideas are more likely to be brought to fruition.

When I reviewed Woman back in March, I had already figured out how much gravity and power this perfume held. It's one of a kind, and from the very first sniff, I knew that it was made for me. When I spray it, I experience its gifts: to be led by the hand into the forest where this scent lives, underneath the canopy, at the base of a massive oak tree with moss growing all around-- this is where Ormonde Woman lives, and this is my home as well.

This is where I curl up on the half-frozen ground- I am practically impervious to the chill. There are shades of brown and green all around me- a thousand colors with minute differences between them, but each so completely necessary to the scene. Each twig, leaf and insect is exactly where it should be, every inhabitant of every inch of space, living or no longer living, is accounted for and perfectly in place. A shimmering veil of dreaminess touches the hyper-real landscape.

Ever since I was a little girl, this has been my happy place. I picture myself here, sinking into the ground, becoming part of the glorious earth beneath me. Nothing has ever made me happier than knowing the peace I feel here, a place where fear does not exist. It is a place where I accept all the miracles and tragedies of nature for what they are, what they must be. It is a perfect place, my home in the forest. There have been physical places I've been to that are very similar to the forest haven in my mind (or heart?), so many times when I have been overwhelmed by the beauty around me. I have felt small in the presence of mountains and California Redwoods, and I try to keep that feeling with me always. To become small when confronted with great beauty (in whatever form) is a rite of passage for humans, and if you're not lucky enough to be around that beauty all the time, you can seek out an emotional shortcut. Mine has been found, it is Ormonde Woman. The forest in my soul is accessible by a single spray of an atomizer.

Do you have a particular perfume that serves as an emotional shortcut to your happy place? I'd love to hear about it.

Scented Skin Care: the little things matter

2011-10-20T15:50:00.000-05:00

As someone who really gets my jollies out of perfume, I really appreciate it when the little things I use every day, like lip balm or face cream, give me a fragrant boost. There are some companies that really understand that the short time we all take to satisfy our daily needs is just another opportunity to show just how much potential there is in every moment. The products I have listed below all make me happy, and are small indulgences I can highly recommend. Their fragrances are all distinctive, yet don't interfere with my perfume. In short, we've got ourselves some (mostly) cheap thrills here.

Pangaea Organics Pyrenees Lavender with Cardamom lip balm- $12
The scent of French lavender with its slightly fruity nuances is incredibly authentic here, and coupled with the gentle spicy warmth of cardamom, it's truly delightful. The balm itself is soft and spreads easily, and comes in a convenient oversized stick form. All lovers of lavender must try.

Decleor Aroma Solutions Nourishing Lip Balm- $16
Luxury takes hold with a more complex blend of oils, essences and resins: Hazelnut, rice and macadamia oils, barley grain, vanilla and tonka bean, petitgrain and cinnamon. These sound like notes in a beautiful perfume to me, but in lip balm form, it translates as slightly naughty. I was curious to see if the tonka would be noticeable, and it is, thankfully. No one essence in this concoction dominates, it is a natural and sophisticated blend that is perfectly paired with the silky texture of the balm that comes out of the squeeze tube. This is quite possibly one of the best lip balms I've ever tried.

Nuxe Creme Prodigieuse Enrichie Anti-Fatigue Moisturizing Day Cream- $35
Do you love the scent of Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse Dry Oil? Yeah, I do too. It's got a soft jasmine and warm skin scent that no one else can duplicate. Women all over the world clamor for the stuff; it makes skin satin-soft, and it disappears into damp skin leaving no greasy residue. And, most importantly, the fragrance is to die for. That's why when Nuxe decided to create a Prodigieuse facial care line, I was definitely interested. The cream itself provides fabulous, rapidly-absorbing, long-lasting moisture for dry skin and has antioxidants and sweet almond oil for nourishment. The fragrance of the cream is true to the dry oil, and lasts longer than you might expect on the skin. It's not overwhelming in the least, but it will last several hours.

Kisu Lip Balm- $7
This lip balm is available through the DSH Perfumes website, and although Dawn does not make it herself, she's addicted to it just like I am, so she decided she had to sell it through her website. It has the scent of pure Italian neroli essential oil, and that's it. The texture of the balm (in stick form) is very soft and melts onto the lips. The fragrance and the formula itself are so incredibly soothing, it's the closest thing to an instant pick-me-up that I have come across. It's brilliant, and a steal at $7.

Ren Frankincense and Boswellia Serrata Revitalizing Repair Night Cream- $55
This is a night treatment cream that I've used on and off for a couple of years. The fragrance, for lovers of frankincense, is just gorgeous. It's very raw and natural-smelling, herbal, resinous and incredible for a facial massage. Initially I was concerned about my sensitive skin reacting to the frankincense, but it's actually very calming to my skin. Ren products are a bit on the pricey side, but they are really gorgeous and worth the money in my opinion. This is a dead-of-winter must.

Clarins Huile Santal- $50
This is my most recent acquisition, recommended to me by the author of one of my most favorite blogs ever, Beauty Huile. Out of all the facial oils in the world she said unequivocally that for me, it should be Clarins. She was spot on. I really like a heavier texture in facial oils because my skin is dry and I don't like to use a lot of products at one time on my skin. The Santal oil has a base of hazelnut oil and plumps up my skin and makes it as soft as silk and feeling toned. Lately, I've been using it for facial massage at night, and when I wake up in the morning, my complexion has officially ditched the redness it usually has, and instead I have an even skin tone that's as cool as a cucumber. The fragrance is mostly lavender, but there is also cardamom and traces of woodiness- I can't say I can identify it as sandalwood, though. If there were natural sandalwood essence in this oil, the amount probably wouldn't be enough to stand above the lavender to be noticed. The fragrance is relaxing in the way that only lavender seems to be able to pull off, and the quality of the product is excellent. Clarins makes a couple of other facial oils for other skin types as well.

I'd love to know what scented skin care products you use! Please comment below and dish, because obsessed minds NEED to know.

[I was not compensated for these reviews, all opinions are my own and products were purchased by myself with the exception of the Nuxe Prodigieuse Cream, which was a press sample sent to me by the company]

Finally, here's your chance to expose your briefs

2011-10-16T22:32:00.000-05:00

Let's say that you are the creative director of a fragrance firm, or a designer. Your job is to compose a brief to hand off to a particular perfumer and hope for the best. What would you ask for exactly, and to whom would you entrust the job of making your creative vision into olfactory reality?

I've been thinking a lot lately about the incredibly varied briefs that perfumers must get handed to them, and it's my fondest wish that someday, some well-known perfumer would write a book compiling all of them. It wouldn't be necessary to name names, just to be able to read them would be a guilty pleasure. I'm sure they would vary from the insane to the sublime and would make great entertainment on par with Turin and Sanchez' The Guide.

Me? Perhaps I would call up Thierry Wasser and, utilizing his strengths, ask him to compose a fragrance of haute vulgarity. Using a blend of high-quality naturals and great synthetics, he would take certain cues from Guerlain's history. I would ask him to create the olfactory equivalent of the outmoded psychoanalytical idea of the Madonna/Whore Complex. It would smell like early twentieth-century violet, loads of coumarin/tonka and whatever else might strike Monsieur Wasser's fancy. It would turn heads, distracting all in its wake to the point of mania in searching out its source. In short, it would be spectacular.

Thierry Wasser- my imaginary perfume husband

What about you? What would be your perfume fantasy? How would your brief read, and which perfumer would you task with it?

Entry form for the 2012 FiFi Award for Indie Fragrance of the Year

2011-10-14T16:47:00.001-05:00

Below, you will find the rules and entry form to print out and mail in for the 2012 FiFi Award for Best Indie Fragrance. Soon, you will also be able to find the form on The Fragrance Foundation's website, as well as other fragrance blogs. The five finalists and winner will be honored on January 31st, 2012 at the Elements Showcase in NYC. I'm really excited to find out who will be entering and what they will be bringing to the table. Best of luck to all!

2012 FIFI^® AWARD “INDIE” CATEGORY

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR

NOMINEE VALIDATION FORM for 2011 Fragrance Launches

All “indie” fragrances introduced in 2011 are eligible to enter the FiFi® Awards process.

The judging will determine the top five finalists as well as the winner.

There will be one winner in the FiFi® “Indie” Category for Fragrance of the Year (Men’s, Women’s or Shared). The finalists and the winner will be honored at the 2012 Elements Showcase on January 31^st in New York City. The winner will receive the crystal FiFi® statuette as well as a congratulatory check in the amount of $10,000 from Givaudan Fragrances Corp. The winner will also be recognized at the 2012 FiFi® Awards Ceremony on Monday, May 21, 2012.

The criteria for this category are as follows:

Ø Must be an established* brand and on the market for at least 2 years

Ø Must be independent, not distributed or owned by a large company

Ø Must be sold in 1 to 50 doors (actual # of stores) in the U.S. including online

Ø The nominated fragrance must have been launched in 2011

*registered company

The Validation Form asks each eligible brand that introduced a fragrance in 2011 to identify the fragrance, validate and list the number of stores that the fragrance was in as of December 31, 2011 and notarize. In addition, each entry must be accompanied by a $200 entry fee.

Once we receive your notarized Validation Form and the entry fee, your fragrance will be placed on the ballot. Please complete a separate form for each fragrance launched in 2011 that you would like to nominate.

The Validation Form must be returned to The Fragrance Foundation no later than WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2011, along with TWO bottles of the fragrance being nominated. All eligible entries become the property of The Fragrance Foundation.

Voting for the Fragrance of the Year in the “Indie” Category will be scheduled in early January 2012 (exact date to be determined). Entries will be judged by a prestigious panel of independent judges comprising fragrance authorities, beauty press, retailers, etc. Ballots will be tabulated by the Foundation’s accounting firm, Sperduto Spector & Company.

2012 FIFI®AWARD – “INDIE” CATEGORY

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR

NOMINEE VALIDATION FORM

The following fragrance:

__________________________________________

(Fragrance Name and Company as it should appear on the ballot)

 Women’s  Men’s  Shared

was launched in 2011 and is eligible to be listed on the ballot as a nominee for

2012 Fragrance of the Year – “Indie” Category

List Names Of:

Owner: ______________________________

Fragrance Supplier: ____________________ Perfumer: _________________

Bottle Designer: _________________________________________________

Bottle Producer: __________________________________________________

Package Designer: ________________________________________________

Distribution as of December 31, 2011:

# of stores (the criteria states 1 to 50 doors): __________________________

List names of stores: _________________________________________

_____________________________________________

__________________________________________________

(Please list any additional stores on a separate sheet of paper.)

NOTARY STAMP BELOW

________________________________

(Signature of Owner of the Company)

________________________________

(Print name)

_______________________________

(Company)

Company Contact person: ______________________________

Phone: _____________________________________

E-mail: _____________________________________

Payment of Entry Fee by:

o Check enclosed – payable to The Fragrance Foundation in the amount of $__________.

o Credit card – charge my (circle one) Visa/MasterCard/American Express in the amount of $ ____________.

Account number: ________________________________

Expiration Date: _____________________ Security v-code: _________________

Name as it appears on card: __________________________________________

Return this signed and notarized form along with two (2) bottles of the nominated fragrance plus the entry fee by Wednesday, November 30, 2011 to:

The Fragrance Foundation

2012 FiFi^® Award Fragrance of the Year – “Indie” Category

545 Fifth Avenue, Suite 900

New York, NY 10017

Attention: Amy Rubin

If you have any questions, please contact Amy Rubin at 212.725.2755 x103 or Mary Ellen Lapsansky at x106.

Aftelier Parfum Prive: a siren song

2011-10-04T09:00:00.001-05:00

Aftelier Perfumes Parfum Prive was created by Mandy Aftel for herself, but she was so pleased with the results that she felt the need to share it with the world. It's lucky for us that she did, because it's one of her most unique, memorable and stunning fragrances. As is the case with many of Mandy's perfumes, the interplay of opposites is what attracts; sharp against smooth, the creation of energy and then its release. There is also an otherworldliness here, it's your Planet Earth but better.

notes: bergamot, pink pepper CO2, orange flower absolute, osmanthus, pimento leaf, ambrette, ambergris

When I first apply Parfum Prive, the strangest thing happens: my mouth starts to water. It's not a gourmand fragrance, but some part of me wants to consume it anyway, as if inhaling its scent just isn't enough. As I breathe in, it's as if my nose, then throat, then chest expand and tingle with ecstatic anticipation. The spiciness of the pink pepper and pimento leaf are featured quite prominently, and are used to great effect in combination with the bergamot and orange flower absolute. After about 20 minutes, the spices calm down, and the essence of the sea emerges; intoxicating, salty and sweet... this, my friends, is real ambergris. It marries with osmanthus and ambrette seed so seamlessly, and then a tiny hint of coconut comes through. The scent creates vivid imagery in my mind of being shipwrecked somewhere exotic, with traces of flowers and softened, jammy fruits colliding with the breezes coming off of the water... even the sand is present with bits of seashells and pebbles that have been pummeled smooth by the moody sea.

Parfum Prive is haute perfumery at its best. It is a journey in a bottle for revelers to partake in, and also a perfect example of how artisanal excellence and a high taste level can be executed in a fragrance. It is pure, unadulterated luxury.

Consider all this; and then turn to this green, gentle and most docile earth; consider them both, the sea and the land; and do you not find a strange analogy to something in yourself?

-Herman Melville, Moby Dick

A 2ml mini bottle of Parfum Prive can be purchased from the Aftelier Perfumes website for $125, and the perfume solid version is $400 for 1/4 oz in a sterling silver container designed by Mandy herself. Samples are available in both forms for $20 each.

[Sample was sent to me for consideration by the perfumer. Product photos courtesy of Mandy Aftel]

Mini Mondays- Givenchy Dahlia Noir and Frederic Malle L'Eau d'Hiver [10/3/11]

2011-10-03T17:02:00.000-05:00

On this lovely Mini-Monday, we have perfect weather today and two fragrance reviews- one mainstream, one niche.

Givenchy Dahlia Noir was conceived under the creative direction of Givenchy's in-house head designer Riccardo Tisci. The roses and aldehydes on opening are reminiscent of a quieter YSL Paris. Dahlia Noir then moves quickly into generic floral bouquet territory with watery (not marine, more like diluted) aspects with a slightly powdery facet- presumably iris. There is the promise of sensual depth in the base notes with tonka, but it's never allowed to speak too loudly (even in the drydown), which is unfortunate, because it's what could have made this fragrance somewhat interesting. The note of patchouli is listed officially, but I cannot detect any. There is a soft but bright fruitiness to the composition, probably due to the rather nicely rendered mimosa note. The fragrance is described as a powdery floral chypre, but to say that this is any type of chypre is pushing it a bit. To my mind, this is an average-quality floral composition with unrealized potential. There are dozens of modern perfumes on the market today that smell just like this- taking cues from the drama and guts of the perfumes of the 1970s and 1980s, but ultimately they just end up being neither here nor there. In the end, Dahlia Noir gives us an amalgam of tired synthetic musks with lingering traces of generic, nameless flowers.

A lovely spray sample of Frederic Malle L'eau d'Hiver by Jean-Claude Ellena was sent to me by a friend as a birthday present (along with two other Malle samples). This was my first experience with any Frederic Malle perfumes, and L'eau d'Hiver turned out to be my favorite of the three. It's just a whisper of a scent, I could easily use up the entire 2ml sample in one application. As I sat there contemplating it, contented and fully saturated, I realized why I loved it so much. It's similar to Guerlain L'Heure Bleue, but it has the streamlined restraint associated with Ellena's work. The heliotrope note is dominant, but it's brighter and more cheerful here, with the bitter almond facet carrying with it traces of cherries macerated in liqueur. I usually prefer scents with more heft and lasting power, but I can say with certainty that if I had a bottle of L'eau d'Hiver, I'd use it up, and quickly. I'm not sure I see the association with winter in particular, because to me, this fragrance is as seasonless as it gets. Casual, uplifting yet refined, it's simply enchanting.

[sample of Givenchy Dahlia Noir was free from a department store, Frederic Malle L'eau d'Hiver was a gift]

Heart of decadence: Mona di Orio Oud EDP Intense

2011-10-01T18:26:00.002-05:00

Mona di Orio Oud Eau de Parfum Intense is part of the Les Nombres D'Or collection, and as the original collection is about to fade away, it's very reassuring to know that such high quality fragrances are emerging in its place. I've yet to review the others in the new collection that I've sampled (Vanille, Tubereuse, Ambre), but I can give you a hint at what's to come: they're all good, one of them is even what I'd call spectacular.

notes of Oud: elemi, green mandarin, petitgrain, patchouli, osmanthus, nagarmotha, cedarwood, oudh, musc, ambergris

I've tried many oud-centered compositions, but none as spicy and tenacious as this. It's important to emphasize the fact that this is an EDP "Intense", because if you spray too much (which I did the first time), it can easily overwhelm your senses. The second time I tried it, I used more restraint, and was able to detect many of the delicious and unique subtleties it contains. What initially attracted me to this perfume just from having read the notes list is the combination of osmanthus and oud. I could imagine what it might smell like, but the reality of it is much more beautiful and complex than my mind could have conjured. The dried-apricot jamminess of the osmanthus with the smooth, dark depths of the natural Laotian oud is quite simply intoxicating. What binds this blend neatly together are the spices and patchouli, which last for many hours on the skin and may eventually fade in intensity, but they only give way to the most sigh-inducing ambergris (I can't attest to it being natural or not) and tonka (which is not listed, but I'm sure it's there).

Mona di Orio Oud is masculine-leaning with massive sillage, but should not alienate any women who appreciate deep woody or spicy fragrances. Remarkably, you don't necessarily have to like oud itself to enjoy this. The way the material has been adulterated in many fragrances (mainstream and niche) makes it practically unrecognizable in its high-quality, natural state, and I think many folks would be surprised by its potential. So, yes, we've got another oud-based perfume added to an already over-saturated market, and I know, oud was so 2009, but I've never tired of it. You don't throw away your favorite doll just because it's missing a button eye, do you? Not me. Oud is well worn and well loved by me, and I've found something wonderful in Mona di Orio's Oud- something unique that I've not seen before: a particular combination of intensity, sexuality, aggressiveness and confidence all wrapped up in one delirously beautiful package. If Oud were a man, he would be perfect in all his imperfections. Bristly and old-fashioned in some ways, totally unrestrained in other ways. Always surprising, though.

Most people (including myself, at first) think that $520 is a lot of money for a 100 ml bottle of perfume, but I took part in a split hosted by the beautiful Olfactoria, and it's much easier to take when the cost is divided among several friends. Another thing to consider when thinking about cost is the fact that you really only need a tiny bit to last all day. I'm notorious for spraying generously, but I fully admit that was a mistake with Mona di Orio Oud. I'm not even the type to say this normally, but I must- a little goes a long way. I adhere to a "more is more" aesthetic most of the time, but my 5 ml decant is going to last me quite awhile. Honestly, I have a lot of respect for Ms. di Orio for not compromising on quality of materials to make her product affordable for everyone. Many of us would rather have a little of something amazing than have copious amounts of mediocre stuff.

the Noble Rot

Mona di Orio Oud EDP Intense is available through Luckyscent.com. A 100ml bottle is $520 and a sample is available for $8. Don't let the high price of the perfume prevent you from trying a sample- treat yourself to something truly special.

[my decant was purchased by me as part of a split]

New series: Mini Mondays! [9/26/11]

2011-09-26T09:22:00.001-05:00

I've been wanting to do this for awhile now, and I'm finally getting to it. I can't say for sure that I'll be doing this every Monday, but I'll try! My plan is that each Monday, I'll pick a few perfumes to do mini-reviews of, and I'd love to hear what your impressions are of them as well, if you have any!

[my favorite mini- a pygmy marmoset, just a few inches high]

Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial

I'm a little late with this one, considering I've already used up 1/3 of my bottle and have since relegated it to the warm weather fragrance area, but better late than never. This flanker to Shalimar is quite good, it sparkles, it's a true gourmand Oriental in Thierry Wasser style. It's an energizing scent for me as opposed to the usual slightly narcotic effect an Oriental has on me, and while I admit that I've never been a fan of Shalimar (despite my mother's early proclivities toward it), I think Parfum Initial is a wonderful fragrance for warm weather. Lemon tart, vanilla, patchouli... a strange masculine edge that is not particularly easy to reconcile with the over-the-top doughy sweetness, but somehow, it works. By the power of Wasser, it works.

Molinard Vanille EDT

This is one of the best straight-up, cheap and cheerful vanilla scents for layering, and you can get it for a song on discount sites, too. One of my all-time favorite combinations is Le Labo Oud 27 with Molinard Vanille-- it lends a pure, cozy and warm edge to Oud 27's cold, woody, bewitching weirdness. The effect is much like M. Micallef's Aoud Gourmet, which is wonderful but expensive. This was one of my earliest scent layering experiments that turned out beautifully, and I wore it a ton last fall and winter.

Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Tar

Sadly discontinued with arguably some of the worst packaging ever, I still love Tar. It's similar to Bulgari Black, except not as sweet, complex, or annoying. Instead, Tar gives me everything I love about avant-garde synthetic fragrances: an impression in broad strokes of newly laid black top in a school yard. While not being classically pretty in any way, shape or form, it should appeal to those who tend to be attracted to the scent of skunk and gasoline. If you happen to find a bottle somewhere in the open market, beware of the packaging, which resembles a black condom inside a clear plastic bottle. Sometimes it leaks and forms condensation inside, and whispers nasty things into your ear in the middle of the night. But, if you can find it, grab it anyway. Victoria from EauMG and I were lucky enough to pick up the last two bottles from The Perfume House in Portland thanks to a hot tip and quick thinking by Dee from Beauty on the Outside. We both still wonder if there are any more bottles out there in the world, but rather doubt it because of the high chance of evaporation due to the packaging.

[all perfumes purchased by me for my personal collection]

Prada Candy- don't shed your benzoin tears on my account, I think you're cool

2011-09-24T08:28:00.001-05:00

It's been awhile since I've encountered such an incredibly misnamed perfume as Prada Candy. It's comforting, cozy and resinous. It's also many other things, including fantastic, but it really does not remind me of candy in any way, nor is it even that sweet. I should warn you that my tolerance for sweetness in perfume is extraordinarily high, however. Point in case: I list Guerlain's Iris Ganache as one of my favorites. It does have a caramelized sugar aspect to it, but the overdose of benzoin really counteracts excessive sweetness. There is a sharp woodiness at the outset that takes over for a little while, but Candy is worth sticking it out to see where it takes you and may yield a surprise or two for you depending on how you feel about previous Prada releases.

Candy has heart. Much more heart than any of the other Prada fragrances I've tried, which all feel cool or cold to me-- too anemic, which is something that's always turned me off about Prada perfumes. I am someone who is more drawn to excess and opulence than starkness, severity and minimalism. There are always exceptions, but even the soliflores I love tend to have so much life, layers and richness to them. Candy veers away from opulence but is simultaneously a skillfully balanced resinous gourmand which lends the comfort of fragrant curlicues of incense smoke without the heaviness of a bonfire. Prada Candy will never overwhelm, and proves that where there's smoke, there doesn't necessarily have to be fire.

The quality of the vanilla is excellent, and it reminds me of the smell of antique books or newsprint, similar to what I get from Barbara Bui Le Parfum. In fact, Candy could really be considered a sibling of Le Parfum, which I also adore and is sadly discontinued. Consistent with the Prada brand, Candy has a streamlined approach to gluttony, but I believe it succeeds with a certain warmth that none of their others have. It draws you in and invites you to stay, instead of simply stating its existence, defying you to connect to it.

When analyzing Candy, it's not the caramel I keep thinking about, it's the benzoin. I imagine a host of benzoin tears at my disposal, appearing as nectar of the gods- sticky, resinous, and yes, a little sweet. When Prada got a hold of those little benzoin tears, they sang until there was laughter, eschewing the tears for joy.

The packaging is great, though not well suited to the scent. From the outer box with its bright pink and illustration of a slightly amused and chic blonde in an LBD to the improbably vintage 1960s-looking UFO bottle itself, it is truly giddiness-inducing. You would not expect a comfort scent perfect for cooler weather to emerge from the atomizer, but something more in line with cherry lollipop or a sweet, fruity floral.

The sillage is moderate, and the longevity is quite good. I spritzed generously in the evening and woke up with the luscious fragrance all over me, still (in fact, I think it gets better the longer it's on skin/clothes). After about 6-8 hours, it starts to take on a mellower, warmer and nutty quality that is very attractive and pretty hard to resist. This is one of the very few recent mainstream releases I can write about enthusiastically (I don't even bother writing about most of them because they're so unremarkable)-- it is a wonderful scent for a very reasonable price. This will be one of those perfumes that I'm likely to repurchase once my supply is out. I never thought I'd say that about a Prada release, but there it is. Perfumer Daniela Roche-Andrier really caught my attention this time around, and I hope to see more designs like this one from her in the future.

For the mainstream consumer, I think the packaging and bottle will attract certain tastes, and some people will be surprised. I feel pretty strongly that Prada has a success on their hands, even though the artistic concept and the product itself are somewhat at odds. It doesn't smell like 50 other mainstream fragrances you can find in the department store, and that will definitely benefit Prada, especially come this holiday season. I predict huge sales just for the adorable presentation alone. It's the kind of thing girls just like- delightful AND useful.

The only listed notes are caramel, musk and benzoin. Prada Candy EDP is available in 1.7 and 2.7 oz bottles for $80 and $108 respectively. It can be purchased at Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and many of the other usual suspects.

[my bottle was purchased by me for my own collection]

Major Thrill: I'm featured in an article for Allure Magazine's October issue!

2011-09-18T19:00:00.002-05:00

A couple of months ago, I was lucky enough to have been interviewed for the October 2011 issue of Allure Magazine by Contributing Executive Beauty Editor Alyssa Hertzig for her perfume article, "Bottled Seduction". I'm there along with several others including fellow bloggers (and gals I adore) Victoria from EauMG and Annie from Blogdorf Goodman, as well as my good friend, perfumer Mandy Aftel.

I am thrilled and honored to be included in Alyssa's article and to be a part of Allure Magazine's October issue, even if in a small way. I've been an Allure reader for a very long time and I don't think I've missed a single issue. So if you love perfume and/or me, or if you just like me and love perfume, whichever, please pick up the October issue of Allure Magazine and read "Bottled Seduction".

The perfect cover model for my first print interview [brows are everything]

Fragrance Foundation Indie Committee News: eye on the FiFi!

2011-09-16T08:00:00.006-05:00

Press Contact: Lyn Leigh, lleigh@fragrance.org

Press Release

For Immediate Release

The Fragrance Foundation

Shares Further Details on

“Indie” FiFi Award Initiative

New York NY September 16^th 2011. The Fragrance Foundation is very pleased and excited to announce that thanks to the great generosity of Givaudan Fragrances Corp., a congratulatory $10.000.00 cheque will be presented to the winner of the Indie FiFi Award at a festive ceremony during the Elements Showcase at the end of January 2012.

“We are delighted to support this Foundation initiative,” comments Cosimo Policastro, Givaudan’s dynamic and respected Executive Vice President, Fine Fragrances, “and especially pleased to provide an extra measure of encouragement to these talented, creative free-spirits. We admire their entrepreneurial skills in balancing business with much passion and love of the art form that is fragrance.”

The Foundation is very excited to be able to encourage niche/independent brands that add such inventiveness, creativity and personality to the fragrance world to vie for the Indie FiFi Award. The stellar members of the newly formed “Indie” Committee have already met to action guidelines and procedures. “Each and every committee member is absolutely in tune with this world, knows their needs and understands their dreams,” comments Mary Ellen Lapsansky, Vice President of The Fragrance Foundation. “We thank them for their enthusiasm and support.” The following recommendations have now been instituted by the Committee:

· Submission forms will be posted online early October at www.fragrance.org, www.elements-showcase.com and on various fragrance websites and blogs.

· Submission forms will be due late November.

· Judging will take place in early January 2012 in New York.

· The Indie Committee will select the judging panel based upon knowledge, experience and expertise and will formulate guidelines to assist the panel through the judging process.

· An Indie brand must be an established brand that has been on the market for at least 2 years and must be sold in 1 to 50 doors including online in order to participate. The brand must be independent, not owned or distributed by a large company.

· The entry fee is established at $200.00 per entry.

“Indie” Committee Mission statement

The “Indie” Committee Members:

Mandy Aftel (Aftelier Perfumes) Arnaud Adrian (Robertet) Rochelle Bloom (The Fragrance Foundation) Frederick Bouchardy (Joya Studio) Karl Bradl (Aedes de Venustas) Virginia Bonofiglio (Fashion Institute of Technology) Denise Capozzalo (Barneys) Rodrigo Flores-Roux (Givaudan Fragrances Corp.) Victoria Frolova (Bois de Jasmin) Mary Ellen Lapsansky (The Fragrance Foundation), Carrie Meredith (Eyeliner on a Cat) Ralf Schwieger (Mane)

The Shift: adapting fragrance habits for Fall

2011-09-15T18:50:00.001-05:00

It's that time again, my favorite time of year. The weather cools- slowly but surely, and I start thinking more and more about rich and spicy home fragrances and also switching out the perfumes in heavy rotation on my bedside table. Yesterday, I moved out Esprit d'Oscar, Shalimar Parfum Initial and several other similarly sparkling scents on the lighter side of the spectrum and have dusted off the perennial (and more recent) favorites for cool weather.

[not my cat, but I wish she was]

Here's an updated list of what now occupies the prime real estate on my bedside table (full bottles and decants included):

Guerlain Iris Ganache
Vivienne Westwood Boudoir
Le Labo Oud 27 & Patchouli 24
Ormonde Jayne Woman
Amouage Opus V
Caron Tabac Blond (vintage)
Coty L'Origan (vintage)
Balmain Miss Balmain (vintage)
Etat Libre d'Orange Tom of Finland
Soivohle Meerschaum
DSH Perfumes Sienna
Mona di Orio Vanille
Diptyque Tam Dao
L'Artisan Traversee du Bosphore

[photo: greenesglassshop.com]

There is only one permanent artist-in-residence on the table, and that is Aftelier Perfumes. They are as necessary to me as oxygen, and I need them all at hand to satisfy my moody tendencies and to cure my mind of its mischievous ghosts. Particularly useful in this regard are Tango, Cacao and either the Jasmine solid or Candide. My newest daily treat is slathering on Aftelier Chocolate and Saffron Body Oil and layering Cacao perfume on top. I've always been a gourmand fragrance lover (and all year-round, too), but the Fall weather makes me practically insatiable.

Beyond the gourmands, I must have all manner of leathers, Orientals, woods, musks and rich vintage florals-- a little of everything. I've accepted that even if we have another surge of warm weather, my fragrance desires have shifted and they must be heeded.

The recent order I placed with Candles Off Main also reveals where my interests currently lie:
Belle Fleur Cacao Tabac
Votivo Smoke on the Water (I love the travel tins, I always get a couple)
Modern Alchemy Opium Den

And although my husband has pleaded with me to save our NEST Pumpkin Chai candle for closer to Halloween, I've already started burning it. He can buy the next one.

What about you? Have you made some switch-outs in your heavy-rotation perfume area (if you have one), and if so, name names! Include any preferences in home fragrance, as well.

[photo credit for Autumn kitty: animals.desktopnexus.com]

Indulgence never sleeps: Aftelier Perfumes Chocolate and Saffron Body Oil

2011-09-12T17:42:00.001-05:00

Today I got the singular pleasure of trying Aftelier Perfumes Chocolate and Saffron Body Oil for the first time. Its base is jojoba and fractionated coconut oil, and is very light in texture. I used it straight out of the shower when my skin was still damp, and found that I didn't need to use much to saturate my skin and to leave a softly scented veil that lasted for hours. Since the scent has worn off, I may have applied it one or two more times, just to get my jollies.

The scent is a true cocoa scent; those familiar with Aftelier's Cacao perfume will recognize its authenticity and ability to whip any sour moods right into shape in no time flat. The Chocolate and Saffron Body Oil manages to never be too sweet; it is tempered with the equally luxurious yet slightly floral, spiced botanical nature of saffron.

I need to make a point of mentioning the presentation. It comes in a 3.5 oz rectangular glass pump-top bottle, looks absolutely chic on a dressing table, and is very satisfying to hold in the hand and use. The genuine nature of the chocolate makes itself known right away, it says right on the label to "shake well before using". The pseudo-lava lamp thrill you get in the beginning is fun, but not as fun as shaking the bottle vigorously until the drops of almost-black cocoa essence dissolve into the oil base, sending tiny bubbles of light and dark into a beautiful flurry.

apricot saffron profiteroles with chocolate saffron sauce [payard.com]

The product itself leaves the skin feeling like silk, and that would be enough for me, except the fragrance is out of this world and it's clear to me I'll never be able to live without it again. Other scents available are: Rose, Vetiver Mint, Patchouli Spice, Lavender and Fresh Ginger. A 3.5 oz bottle retails for $40 and is available at Aftelier.com.

[my bottle was purchased by me for my own personal use]

DSH Perfumes Pandora: A Beautiful Evil [new launch]

2011-09-12T10:00:00.003-05:00

The image that Dawn Spencer Hurwitz associates with her new perfume Pandora is of Odilon Redon's 1914 painting "Pandora", and she sites Redon as one of her favorite artists and an ongoing inspiration to her. Redon is also one of my favorite artists, so I was happy to know that Dawn and I have one more thing in common (and this is a good 'un). Redon's "The Spider" has been a long-running spark to my imagination, and while quite different from the style of "Pandora", a case could be made that "The Spider" could also represent the idea of "beautiful evil" as told by the Greek Hesiod.

he may look evil, but you'd be surprised

Most of us know the Greek myth of Pandora, and how she unleashed evil on the world by opening her box, but there is always a flipside when it comes to extremes. Along with evil, she also set truth free upon the world and allowed humankind to gain knowledge of what truth really means. This changes the ideals of the human race forever. To me, Socrates' statement that "the unexamined life is not worth living" very much applies to me. I find the alternative a bit terrifying-- I'm the sort that prefers to live in truth no matter how disagreeable, because honesty and integrity are of paramount importance to me. As I discovered the artistic intent behind Dawn's perfume Pandora, I realized how well this concept suits not only my life, but Dawn's as well. Dawn is one of those people who, if you know her at all, you know that her intentions are pure, her spirit is generous and her conscience is clear. These are the kind of people I like to surround myself with.

Pandora is a siren song to lovers of the classic, unadulterated chypre; in fact, it has many of the startlingly narcotic qualities of the much-missed vintages that perfume lovers the world over currently mourn. While the ozone and aldehydes present in the opening give Pandora a bit of modernity, the predominant notes soon reveal themselves to me as rose de mai, patchouli and oak moss. It's the recreation of the "Mousse de Saxe" accord, however, that is most noteworthy here. It was originally created by Ernest Daltroff for the French house Caron, and famously used in Nuit de Noel among others. It traditionally consists of geranium, licorice, leather, iodine and vanillin. In Pandora, Dawn has modified and used it to great effect, giving the blend a cool, almost icy anisic smoothness, like a deep chocolate brown in olfactory form. With the inclusion of oak moss, Pandora confidently leads us to the densest part of the forest to seat us on its rich and fertile floor, where it's unclear even what time of day it is (but it ceases to matter). Dawn used some materials that are relatively new to perfumery in order to create this perfume, and it leaves its impression as an ode to the classics (which Dawn is spectacularly good at), while treading new ground at the same time.

The drydown is my favorite part of Pandora-- it leaves a long-lasting trail of powdery and slightly sweet amber and tonka, the soft breath of orris, and recalls vintage Miss Balmain and even Coty L'Origan. There is history contained within these rich depths, and if there is evil to be found in this particular beauty, it can only be through the temptation to indulge oneself.

Pandora is 97.5% natural origin, and 2.5% synthetic origin, and the notes include:

TOP: ruby fruits (botanical), bergamot, aldehyde, spice notes, ozone, violet leaf absolute, davana, cassis bud, green and pink pepper

HEART: rose de mai absolute, juhi jasmine, linden blossom absolute, yerba mate absolute, cabrueva wood, orris co2, green tea absolute

BASE: mousse de saxe accord (botanical), cyperus, fossilized amber absolute, ambergris tincture, patchouli co2, vetiver co2, muhuhu, Australian sandalwood, tonka bean absolute, green oakmoss, vanilla absolute

Here is a list of links to other bloggers participating in this launch event:

EauMG
Scent Hive
Perfume Pharmer
This Blog Really Stinks
Esscentual Alchemy
Indie Perfumes
DSH Notebook
Oh, True Apothecary
Scentual Soundtracks

[sample of fragrance provided by DSH for review]

The Winner of the EnVoyage L'Emblem Rouge sample set is...

2011-09-10T12:22:00.000-05:00

Thank you all so much for entering the draw and leaving comments on this unique pairing of a perfume and a hydrosol.

The winner of the draw is Tara!

Tara, please email me at eyelineronacat at gmail dot com with your mailing address and I will get your goodies out to you soon.

Don't forget to stop by Scent Hive... you still have a chance to win Trish's draw for the same sample set!

Baptism by fire: Amouage Jubilation 25 Candle

2011-09-09T15:45:00.001-05:00

Clean and dirty, pristine in its details on the surface but with an earthy growl behind it. These are the descriptors of the best incense fragrances, and ones I often use to describe my favorite Amouage scents, too. One of my biggest weaknesses (and I have many, so consider this a King Weakness) is incensey candles. And for every King of Weaknesses there is a Queen's Indulgence, an over-the-top representation of luxury that sends a shiver up my spine and melts any resolve that might be lurking beneath the surface. Meet Amouage's Jubilation 25 candle- gilded, glowing and gorgeous.

notes: tarragon, lemon, ylang ylang, rock rose, frankincense, davana, labdanum ciste, patchouli, amber, vetiver, musk, myrrh

the first burn is always the best

The perfume Jubilation 25 was created by Lucas Sieuzac, and in my opinion the candle is a very faithful representation of the EDP. I almost enjoy this particular fragrance even more as an ambient one. It's worth mentioning that because of the softness of the wax, it is entirely feasible to use the candle wax as a solid perfume. In fact, as soon as I unpacked the candle, that's the first thing I did and it worked quite well. The candle is clean-burning and quickly creates a pool of luscious liquid when lit.

This is my first experience with Amouage home fragrance products, and it's clear that the firm adheres to the same high standards as with their personal fragrances. The cold throw is excellent (the scent the candle gives off when not lit) and fills the room quickly with rich fragrance when burning. The Jubilation 25 candle is a feast for the senses and is particularly delightful as cool, rainy weather descends on the city as I write this.

candle and holder are available as a set

Amouage's Jubilation 25 candle is 6.9 oz and is available from the Amouage website for 120 Euros (candle with the beautiful holder is also available together as a set for 165 Euros) as well as from Parfums Raffy for $195 USD. I will update this post with additional US retail outlets as I find out about them.

[candle was sent to me by the company for my consideration]

photo credits: top photo is my own, bottom photo from Amouage.com

The rose that stayed for dinner: En Voyage Perfumes L'Emblem Rouge EDP [and a draw!]

2011-09-06T10:00:00.002-05:00

The lovely Trish (from one of my favorite perfume blogs, Scent Hive) and I decided to create a little blogging project in order to celebrate the launch of Shelley Waddington's En Voyage Perfumes L'Emblem Rouge, a rose soliflore. I will discuss the eau de parfum here, and Trish will be exploring the accompanying hydrosol, created by Dabney Rose.

The people who know me best know that I am not generally a fan of rose-centric perfumes, but my mind is always open, because there are always exceptions. Take Aftelier Perfumes Roses Solid, for instance. I really appreciate the fresh aspects of rose, like crushing rose petals in the palm of your hand and then inhaling, and Mandy's Roses is that exactly.

L'Emblem Rouge captures that moment in time so well, even if it doesn't last too long. I have long since made peace with the reality that the best of natural perfumes don't last as long as I'd like, but in a way, I savor their fleeting nature even more because I know it won't be staying with me for several hours.

L'Emblem Rouge is the first entry in perfumer Shelley Waddington's new all-natural Rubicon Collection. Lovers of rose soliflores will rejoice when they get their hands on this one, and those with charitable hearts will, too:
"A lifetime gift of five percent of all L'Emblem Rouge proceeds will be donated to Broadway Cares, a leading non-profit AIDS fundraising and grant-making organization." -from the En Voyage website

top notes: cassie, mace, bitter orange, juicy grapefruit, green pepper, Iranian galbanum, violet, cistus heart notes: organic Iranian rose otto, ylang ylang, heliotrope, French jasmine sambac, violet, honey base notes: guaiacwood, sandalwood, copaiba, vetiver cedarwood Virginia, tolu balsam, benzoin Siam, tonka, vanilla, ambergris

Once the fresh rose aspect has faded down, the warm depths of L'Emblem Rouge emerge to envelop you in the kind of comfort you crave on a cool, windy Autumn day. It becomes redolent of a well-loved chenille blanket that has held on to traces of incense smoke from night after night of revelry. It is simply stunning.

[photo: obeygiant.com]

Once in awhile the impossible happens, and it reaffirms my pledge to myself to keep my mind and heart open, and if a rose perfume should want to come in for a trial-run, I will certainly open the door.

En Voyage Perfumes L'Emblem Rouge may be purchased in two concentrations. The EDP is available in 0.25 oz and 0.50 oz bottles ($40 and $115, respectively), and L'Eau Emblem Rouge, the hydrosol it is paired with, 0.35 oz for $25. Samples are also available for $6.

To celebrate the launch of L'Emblem Rouge, I am holding a draw for a sample set: a mini spray sample of the hydrosol and a mini-roller ball of the eau de parfum. Just leave a comment here to enter-- tell me what your thoughts are about rose in perfumes. Do you love it? Do you give it the ol' side-eye? Does it sleep at the foot of your bed, curled up in a ball?

Drawing will be held on Saturday, September 10th at 12:00 pm, and will be decided by random.org. I will announce the winner on my blog, and the winner is responsible for contacting me via email with their mailing address (eyelineronacat at gmail dot com). In the meantime, don't forget to head over to Scent Hive to read all about L'Eau Emblem Rouge. Good luck!

Perfumer Interview Series: Kedra Hart of Opus Oils

2011-09-03T11:00:00.002-05:00

Kedra Hart, creatrix of fragrant delights and owner of Opus Oils and the Jitterbug Perfume Parlour in Hollywood, CA, is one of those rare individuals that I can say I was instantly drawn to. The more you get to know her, the more you want to know. So, I found it natural to ask her to be a part of my Perfumer Interview Series. It turned out that this interview coincided with the official launch of her Les Bohemes collection (I have written about several of those scents), and also the 3rd Anniversary of her by-appointment-only Jitterbug Perfume Parlour. Kedra has become an inspiration to me creatively, and I am thrilled to be celebrating these happy occasions with her here on my blog.

CM: How were you initially inspired to create your new Les Bohemes collection? What was the process like in creating it?

KH: The Les Bohemes Collection began as a single Solifleur & blossomed into a whole garden! It was quite a process spanning the course of several years.

It all started with my fascination with a single flower - the Datura (Flapper)… I used to live in Laurel Canyon & would take lots of walks around the neighborhood at night. I loved the scent of the night air & would follow different scent trails until I found their source. I became completely enchanted on many occasions by Daturas/Brugmansias in the area. These mysterious beauties gave off a scent that was so unique & intoxicating that I spent a lot of time with my nose stuck in their petal trumpets!

I wanted to use a Datura note in my Bespoke Fragrance Palette but there were no Datura captives on the market so I started work on a Datura Solifleur… Over time, I began developing more & more Solifleurs to add to my Palette as a method of doing simplified Custom Scent Blends for special events where I didn’t have time to blend note by note. I debuted this Bespoke Scent Palette during a Valentines Day event for the Beverly Hills Four Seasons.

The Les Bohemes Collection came together as a group of scents from my bespoke palette that all fit into the theme of the roaring 20’s. These were all perfume notes that were popular during The Golden Age of Perfumes.

CM: Did you design all the Les Bohemes scents to blend easily together or was that something you discovered after the fact?

KH: Pretty early on into my creative process as a Perfumer, I started thinking about the possibilities of creating a Fragrance line with layering capabilities. The idea had been with me for a long time as I had experimented with layering scents long before I was creating them. I can remember doing this when I was very young, with what I now understand were Solifleur Perfumes, that were acquired on family trips to Hawaii. Orchid, Pikake & Plumeria were some of my favorites to mix & match.

I did have it in mind with the Les Bohemes Collection to have the scents work in layered combinations with each other. It was a monumental task to get each scent to the point that it was a "Star" in its own right as well as being able to play well with others! After years of trial and error, I am thrilled that the feedback has been so positive on the layering aspect of this collection!

CM: Do you ever listen to music while you’re composing perfumes? If so, what do you listen to?

KH: Music has always been a great source of inspiration for me. I do blend with music playing most of the time. My taste is very eclectic, ranging from rock to jazz, blues, swing & everywhere in between.

For blending, I tend to favor soulful singers like Billie Holiday, Louis Armstrong, Nina Simone, Edith Piaf, Serge Gainsbourg. Generally I like to listen to music with lots of feeling that encourages my mind to wander & dream, putting me into certain moods that complement the particular scent that I am working on…

For the Les Bohemes Collection I was listening to a lot of “Flapper Music,” Edith Piaf & French Café Music.

Lots of Psychedelic Rock was playing while I worked on WILD CHILD #13 for the Summer of Patchouli Love 2011 Scent Event, hosted by Monica Miller of Perfume Pharmer. Which, I guess, must have been some good MoJo because my scent actually won 1^st place in the competition!

CM: What led you to want to have a brick-and-mortar perfume parlour in addition to having your products available online? Do you have plans to open any others?

KH: Our Jitterbug Perfume Parlour is really an extension of the environment that was happening in our previous workspace, just on a much larger scale! Space had a lot to do with it, we needed more room for Perfume Classes & special Scent Events that we were putting together. Also, the location was so perfect that it was hard to pass up! We’re located in a building on Hollywood Blvd. that was built in the 1920’s… Which is actually pretty rare in Los Angeles as this city is fond of tearing down old buildings & putting up pod malls.

I should mention that we are not your traditional brick & mortar. Our retail space is open by appointment only, which allows us to provide a very special personalized shopping experience for our Customers & Bespoke clients.

CM: How much bespoke work do you generally do? Does it account for a lot of your time?

KH: I do quite a lot of bespoke work both for individuals & for businesses, which suits me perfectly as my absolute favorite aspect of the Perfume Business is the creative aspect! I love to get going in my atelier & slip into the trance headspace where the dreaming part starts. At that point the fragrance I am working on takes on a secret life of it’s own - a personality with a unique voice in scent. I love to create living, breathing art!

Tiger Powers for Dirty Sexy Wilde

CM: Les Bohemes has marked a new chapter in the history of Opus Oils and is being received very well by the public and press, how are you going to follow up Les Bohemes? Will you go with another themed collection?

KH: I am thrilled that Les Bohemes has been offered such a warm welcome into the Fragrant Universe! I really put a lot of heart & soul into this collection & I’m pleased beyond words that people have had such a positive response to these scents.

I do tend to think in terms of themes when it comes to Collections... An idea usually starts as a fascination with one aspect of something I experience (music, books, movies, art, food etc.).

When I start exploring that one aspect it usually winds up dividing into different branches like a family tree. By the time I get it all “worked out” there are usually several scents that fit nicely into the theme.

There are currently several different areas that I am exploring that I could see turning into a Scent Collection project, but it’s still too early for me to narrow it down to one specific theme. I’ll definitely keep you posted on that one!

For now, keep your eyes open for a new unisex fragrance I created for Fetish Model Tiger Powers. Being close to Halloween, Opus Oils is hosting a special “Pajama Party Massacre” launch (murder mystery party) Oct. 23^rd, 2011. Be there or be scared…

CM: What’s one piece of advice you would give an up-and-coming independent perfumer?

KH: Well, it’s definitely a tough market to crack & there is no shortage of competition (or Haters)! You really have to be passionate about the art of perfumery, because that is what will keep you going through the trials & tribulations that are bound to happen along the path of pursuing the business of being an Independent Perfumer.

Of course it is important to really learn your materials inside & out. Study them closely & let them teach you. There are so many wonderful scented materials out there right now to explore. I find myself in perpetual study mode as far as materials go.

I encourage my students to be true to themselves & their own creative vision at all times. This is the only way that they will be able to develop their own style or signature as a perfume artist. It’s the same with any art form (perfume, painting, writing, music, etc.), it takes years of study & practice to master any craft.

CM: What do you feel is your forte as a perfumer? And which materials do you love working with the most?

KH: That’s a tough question! I really love working with all aromatics, but the areas that interest me most on the fragrance wheel, are usually the heart & the base notes. My forte is probably rich, animalic florals.

One of my absolute favorite materials to work with is Ambergris (the Mermaids Treasure). I love the whole process involved in working with this ingredient. Taking a solid brick & turning it into powder, then tincturing it for several months… It’s a lengthy process to be sure, but it feels truly alchemical & I love that! I also like to put it into Cocktails for a decadent treat.

CM: I appreciate the sense of fun and playful sensuality in all of your work. Would you say that also describes your personality?

KH: What a sweet compliment to my work! I would like to think that also describes my personality as well, as I have always been inspired by artists & sensualists & I do try to focus on the bright & fun side of life.

Kedra Hart

CM: The Jitterbug Perfume Parlour is coming up on its 3^rd anniversary, congratulations! What do the next three years hold for Opus Oils?

KH: Thanks so much Carrie! I am so happy to be marking this special occasion with you in this interview!

It really does feel like a milestone of sorts to be making it to our 3^rd year given this particular economic climate, especially the way things have been going for the past few years in California!

In the next thee years I would really like to extend our brand distribution to include more Fragrance outlets & specialty stores.

I will also be focusing on continuing & expanding my work in Bespoke Services. I am looking forward to continued involvement in the fragrance community.

CM: What do you say to the world through your fragrances?

KH: I think of my fragrances as a celebration of life, beauty & magic! I hope that translates to those who wear my fragrant creations. I believe we should appreciate, respect & celebrate life every day! Scent is a wonderful way to communicate non-verbally about beauty & pleasure.

Kedra's cat Gish, conserving energy

Kedra's soul kitty Neptune~ Rest In Peace

For more information on Opus Oils and the Jitterbug Perfume Parlour, you can visit www.opusoils.com. All photos courtesy of Kedra Hart.

Spotlight on indie brand For Strange Women

2011-08-29T20:25:00.001-05:00

Jill McKeever is the proprietress of independent natural niche line For Strange Women. She's from Kansas City, MO, and has a brick and mortar store there as well. Click HERE to read a short article about Jill and For Strange Women from The Kansas City Star online.

My fellow perfume enthusiast and writer Nathan Branch decided to send me some goodies to review from For Strange Women. When I unpacked them, I was greeted with the phrase "Welcome to the Forest" printed on the outside of the box, which instantly made me smile. I was struck by how pretty and thoughtful the presentation was. Equal parts rustic and Victorian, each sample vial comes with a beautiful card explaining the intention of the scent. For Strange Women is an eco-minded brand, and proves that that doesn't need to mean tacky, pretentious or boring. I don't always actively seek out Earth-friendly products, but when given such aesthetically pleasing and quirky options such as these, I will happily go for the quirky stuff.

my lovely package [photo by me. I know, I'm no Nathan Branch]

Lip Embellishment Gift Set: For Strange Women's Lip Embellishments are lip balms with outrageously good fragrances and interesting packaging. My husband immediately grabbed the Poison Ivy for himself, and I went for the Pine Cone. At first, the wax can be a bit stiff, but I find that it melts with body temperature to spread more easily. I recommend heating it up by rolling it between your palms for a minute before using. The packaging is made with a biodegradable and compostible cardboard-like tube and printed with soy ink, with a cap you pull off. The lip balm is 100% natural, containing beeswax, cocoa butter, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, meadowfoam, tocopherol, stevia extract, essential oils (that differ depending on which one you have), rosemary extract and mica. It reminds me a bit of the kind of popsicle that you push up out of the long, clear wrapper to get to the goods. The scents are brilliant and include Poison Ivy, Clove, Pine Cone and Rosewood. They are effective lip protectants and very emollient, and despite the inclusion of stevia, you can barely taste any sweetness- just a tiny hint. Perfect! A set of 4 come in a gift box for $24, or they are $6 individually.

Perfume Enhancing Fixative Base: This waxy base comes in a tin, and the idea is that you apply it before using natural perfume oils to help them last longer on your skin. The directions are: apply to skin, wait three minutes, then apply perfume. It forms a barrier so that the oils don't get sucked up by your skin immediately. It is made from shea butter, cocoa butter, beeswax and vitamin E. The base does indeed help to make the fragrances last longer, and if you generally apply natural perfumes in the morning before work and don't really touch it up during the day, this is something that could be really helpful in extending the fragrance. The tins of Perfume Fixative Base come in two sizes, for $8 and $18.

I love the concept of the Fauna Cologne trio. They are all-natural and are named after animals. These fragrances have an oil base (jojoba and coconut), and are rather mysteriously referred to as colognes. They are not traditional colognes- instead, I believe the word is used to imply that these are more masculine fragrances. There is a 25% fragrance concentration to the Fauna Colognes, and they are all pretty tenacious, especially for natural compositions. Individual bottles of each scent are available, 8ml for $46, or you can get a sample trio for $18.

Horse: Let me just get this out of the way first: I am ALL about Horse. Horse is everything. My kingdom for a Horse? Yes, please. This is a very rich, deep hay fragrance- fresh and comforting. It is animalic in the way that I hope everything labeled an "animalic" fragrance will smell, but rarely does. There is saddle leather present, and even the saddle wax that goes on it. It really takes me back to when I was a kid, hanging out at my mother's horse barn. While including all the elements that make us Barnyard Chic Freaks titter with excitement, Horse manages to mostly focus on the sweat-covered skin of the horse itself after just having been for a long run. It's an emotionally tender scent for me, and frankly, it almost makes my eyes well up with tears. Horse has the kind of imagination contained within it that you don't see very often. It has a linear development, but that's a positive thing here. Everything is present all at once and it just fades as a whole over time. Once it dries down in the extreme, it's very much a dry hay scent. Horse is completely enchanting, I will need a bottle of this.
notes: hay, clover, leather, cedar, oats, musk

[photo: pbs.org]

Coyote: Coyote is meant to evoke the warm fur of this elusive canine creature. Coyote starts and finishes in the masculine realm. Bay is one of those things that are rarely (if ever) used in feminine perfumes, and the bay is fairly strong here and stays throughout the entire wearing. The neroli and bergamot give a nice little citrus acidity to the blend, and after about 10 minutes go by, the warm fur accord emerges. It is not "wet dog" kind of animalic fantasy accord, so it's not quite as literal as Horse feels. Coyote is a dry, aromatic fougere with the fur element represented by a musky, woody combination. There is a smokiness that is not overwhelming nor does it give smoked meat or barbecue, thankfully. It is a slightly bitter, dry wood smoke. I think Coyote is very nice, but its classic, masculine fougere nature is not something I would reach for frequently (especially since now I can easily make myself smell of Horse).
notes: neroli, bergamot, bay leaf, patchouli, wood smoke, musk, warm spices

[animals.nationalgeographic.com]

Sand Dollar: Sand Dollar comes out of the gate with a lovely pine and lime combination. I'm not usually partial to aquatic themes in perfume, but this one is not your run of the mill Cool Water type of aquatic. The fact that Sand Dollar is all natural works in its favor. Again, there are several fantasy accords here (salty citrus? Ocean pine?). I do get the salty sea thing, but it's not overbearing. The citrus really pops, lending a nice contrast to the pine, and in the end, citrus and pine is what I remember most about this fragrance. I forget that a sand dollar is a living creature, maybe because I've never seen one in person that I can recall. Almost everyone has held the dried-up skeletal remains of one before, but contemplating this perfume has reminded me that the Fauna collection is about the living wonders of the world- animals and creatures of all kinds and sizes. When I'm not thinking about perfume, I can always be caught thinking about animals.
notes: salty citrus, rosemary, seaweed, musk, ocean pine, lime, jasmine

living sand dollar [follybeach.com]

I still have samples of several more For Strange Women perfumes to try, and based on my opinion of what I've tried so far, I'm looking forward to it. There is much fun to be had with this line, and it won't cost you dearly.

Jill McKeever [how cute is this photo? It's from her Etsy store]

[products were purchased and sent to me as a gift by Nathan Branch. The For Strange Women website is HERE, and the Etsy site is linked at the top of the page]

eyeliner on a cat is an NPG-free zone

2011-08-25T10:00:00.002-05:00

Many of us who have been affected by the unfortunate recent events stemming from the Natural Perfumers Guild and its treatment of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz have been looking forward to moving past all the drama. That is why I'd like to make one last statement that will clarify my position as a perfume blogger once and for all. From here forward, I will not be reviewing any perfumes or products from any member of the Natural Perfumers Guild, nor will I be promoting any NPG events or projects (group or individual).

This is a personal decision on my part, and is a direct consequence of the outrageous mistreatment of people I care about who used to be associated with the NPG, but are no longer a part of it. I cannot in good conscience support any work or projects of anyone who shares the ideology or supports the ethics of Anya McCoy and her leadership of the Natural Perfumers Guild.

I apologize if this is offensive to anyone, but I'm a firm believer in transparency and I feel it's better for me to be up front, clear and honest every step of the way.

This statement should not be interpreted as an attack on the NPG membership, it is simply meant as a public message to NPG members that they should not expect me to review their work so long as they are associated with the organization.

The Madonna Lily~ one of my favorite flowers

[photo from wikipedia.com]